A Tent in the Whirl of the Universe

May 10 Day 52 Low Gap Tentsite

I was awake around 5am but I stayed in my sleeping bag for a good hour before I decided to get up. I cowboy camped under the pavilion in the large backyard of the hostel. It was refreshing to sleep outside and not be in my tent. So nice. Yo-D, a NOBO, slept there too and I tried not to wake him up when I went to use the outdoor bathroom. By the time I was finished, Yo-D was inside and I walked in to find almost all the the guests sitting around tables eating huge plates of food. I was late to breakfast! No worries, for Woodchuck keeps making food until everyone is finished. I helped myself to blueberry waffles, potatoes, donuts, eggs, fruit and coffee. What a feast! Everyone was very upbeat and the energy was just what I needed to start my day.

I sat outside for awhile after breakfast (one does not put on a pack soon after a meal like that) and met One Wish’s dog Lucy. We chatted for a bit and soon I realized that I was ready to hike out. The hostel is less than a tenth of a mile off trail on the edge of town, so I filled up my water bottles and headed out.

After about three miles I hiked into Tennessee. Thank you Virginia. It’s been great!

A couple of thunderstorms passed me but since it’s fairly warm out I dried quickly and did not get cold. Great! This is more my style. I feel like I never want to be cold again after what I’ve hiked through up north.

I got to a shelter after ten miles but since it was early in the day I decided to go another five miles to the next water source and tentsites. On my way here a big thunderstorm hit me and it rained hard for a solid ten minutes. Then it was over, and the sun came out so when I stopped for the day I was able to kind of dry my shoes in the sun. And my raincoat. And my socks. The socks dried out some but I may put them inside my shirt tonight so they dry completely. Yep, I’m putting semi wet socks inside my shirt.

It’s the SOBO way.

May 11 Day 53 Vandeventer Shelter

I was hiking by 6:15 this morning and I felt great. A good nights sleep, a dry tent and a good breakfast of cold oatmeal and I was ready to crush 18 miles. Most of the day was spent up on a ridge line going up and down. However, there was a stretch this morning about 7 miles in that crossed some pastures that was gorgeous. Bright green fields, an old ramshackle barn with a giant AT symbol on it and lots of cow patties. The trail was marked by giant boulders of what I believed to be limestone. It seemed that they had been there a long time.

As the day progressed it became hot and I drank at least four liters of water today. Tomorrow and Sunday are slated to be the same. I’ll take it. While I am not terribly fond of really hot weather I am happy to be warm. I remember all those freezing days earlier in my hike and wonder if I am really on the same trail. It has been incredible to see the seasons change the way they have this time around. I know I am fortunate to have seen all four seasons on this trail.

Tomorrow I’ll get up a little earlier and try to crush as many miles in the cooler morning air as I can. It’s 18 miles to Kincora Hostel and Bob, the owner, does a shuttle to town at 5pm and I want to be on that shuttle.

May 12 Day 54 Kincora Hostel

What a day! I slept fitfully and woke around 5am and was packed and walking by 6. A beautiful clear day. I had a nice long downhill for a change and some nice views of Watauga Lake shrouded in fog. As I descended into that fog the temperature dropped about 10 degrees. But that didn’t last long. The fog burned off and soon it was very warm. I got to the picnic area by the lake around 10am and watched several geese families take their very new looking goslings out on the lake. So cute!

I was kind of dreading the big climb over Pond Flats, and per usual is was not as tough as I thought it would be. I was cruising along Laurel Creek in no time and then I stopped at the falls for a splash. The ice cold water felt so refreshing on my dusty hiker face. And legs. And arms. I wanted to lay down in the water but I decided to hike on instead. It was a short mile and a half left to Kincora and I was making crazy good time.

I was about a half mile from the road when a NOBO told me about trail magic at the parking lot. What! My pace increased two fold.

I got there, and to the left in a grassy area several event style tents were up and a sign that said:

Mother’s Day Weekend Trail Magic BBQ: Today and Tomorrow! It was so well organized. There were napkins, plates and bowls, and I walked into the tent to see huge dishes of baked potatoes, slow cooked beef brisket, cheese sauce, banana creme pudding with vanilla wafers, baked beans with pork belly, fruit, a huge assortment of cold beverages, cookies, lemonade and much more. There was even a vegetarian version of everything. These folks have got it gown. I made a plate and sat down with the family who does this every year. They own a cabin across the road and this is their yearly get together. Pretty awesome. I hung out for about an hour eating, talking and eating some more. After I was stuffed I waddled three tenths of a mile up to Kincora. Such a cool funky place. The bunkhouse is next to Bob’s cabin, and connected by a couple of bathrooms, laundry room and shower. There’s a picnic table under a covered porch as well. I went inside and found a bunk on the first floor. Much cooler downstairs. I got settled and then Bob took myself and another hiker to the grocery store. He dropped us off and told us he’s be back in an hour. Perfect!

Since this was a big nice grocery store I was able to get some quality food. No Dollar General resupply today. Nope! I was still stuffed from the bbq, but I knew that I’d be hungry again soon so I made myself a generous salad at the salad bar. Perfect.

I ate my salad in front of the store while waiting for Bob. Hit the spot. It is really nice to have real food.

Back at the hostel I did my laundry, showered and organized my resupply. I went and sat on the porch and Bob told me about hiking the Camino. He showed me his passport which was the model for the AT passport which I have. He’s hiked all over the world and has a remarkable wealth of knowledge of the AT. And other trails as well. His hard work and generosity are well known in the hiking community and it was enlightening to gain some knowledge from him.

Now, however, I am exhausted and I will soon be fast asleep in my bunk.

May 13 Day 55 Mountaineer Falls Shelter

I was up and packed by 6am. I took my stuff outside and made breakfast and a trail mocha on the picnic table. It was nice sipping coffee, watching the fog dissipate above the meadow near the hostel. So beautiful. He cats were up and active and I got some good photos of the orange longhair, Simba. I wanted to wait until Bob came out to thank him. About an hour nor so later he emerged and was getting ready to take some hikers into town for Dunkin Donuts. I said that I was getting back on trail and he hassled me a little good naturedly. I was keen to get going and soon I was back on trail. I did somewhat regret not getting a few donuts to pack out but I know I’ll get a chance again.

Today was a rather uneventful day hiking; the terrain was good and in the afternoon I came across a nice bench with a view of the Road Highlands. Bob’s trail crew, Hard Core, built it last month. Perfect shady spot to cool off and collect myself for the last 3 miles to the shelter.

I’m not much for sleeping in shelters after the mouse incident last month so I pitched my tent right above the shelter. Perfect spot. Very tired, and I don’t have a signal to call Keith but maybe I will tomorrow. I am glad I got a text off to my mom this morning for Mother’s Day.

I think I’ll sleep good here.

May 14 Day 56 Overmountain Shelter

Today was awesome. I was down the trail by 6am and when I saw the side trail to Jones Falls, I went. So worth it! I knew it was going to be a long day with a big climb but I felt strong and happy so by the time I made it to Highway 19 I was stoked to make that 3,000 foot climb.

It wasn’t that bad. At all!

It was actually very nice. Green, nice trail, plenty of switchbacks and then, the views.

By the time I got theee quarters of the way up the trees disappeared and I felt like the Riders of Rohan were going to appear at any time. I was pumped! I put the Beastie Boys (Check Your Head) on and put my headphones in and power climbed the last 800 feet in no time. I had amazing views in all directions.

And did I mention that I’m in North Carolina?

I am!

Tomorrow for nine miles I’ll hike along the border between NC and Tennessee. I’ll go back into Tennessee after that.

I arrived at the iconic Overmountain Shelter around 4pm and found a spot with a great view. This shelter is an old barn and it’d famous on the trail. After about a half hour some locals showed up with cookies, fruit, nuts, hard boiled eggs and they offered to pack out our garbage. So nice! I talked with them for awhile and thanked them profusely for such thoughtful trail magic. And it’s always a godsend to get rid of garbage.

Now I’m watching the sky change, getting ready to get in my sleeping bag and read.

Another stellar day on the Appalachian Trail.

May 15 Day 57 Greasy Creek Friendly

I slept on the bottom section of the barn with a fantastic view of the valley. When Treehugger and Tent Cents, who were sleeping near me, woke up at 5am, I got up too and got my things organized and by 5:30 I was ready to go. So early! I didn’t really sleep too well but I was motivated to get as many miles down before the rain came. I had decided to resupply at the Greasy Creek Friendly 18 miles down the trail so I hit it.

The rain came around 12:30. Not bad considering I only had five and a half more miles to go. Thunder followed me through the green tunnel and when I came to the fork in the trail for the Friendly I was pretty soaked and ready to be done for the day.

I got here and CiCi, the owner, showed me around and I picked out a bunk. I had a couple of hours before the town shuttle for dinner and resupply so I showered and relaxed, planning my next few days on trail. I can’t believe I’ll be entering the Smokies in about ten days.

I have 367 more miles to hike.

I find myself with mixed feelings. I feel highly motivated, even more than when I first started this hike. The notion of the next five days being rainy doesn’t even phase me. I know I’ll still hike the miles I would hike if it were dry.

Big climbs? I will go over them. Bugs? I will spray them. Bears? I will hang my food and do it right so I will not put their lives in jeopardy. Nothing can stop me now.

So soon I’ll put my ear plugs in and go sleep for 8 hours. I’ll pack up and hit the trail and get closer to my goal.

I hear Springer Mountain calling me.

May 16 Day 58 Indian Grave Gap

I enjoyed my stay at the Greasy Creek Friendly but I was happy to be leaving, even if it was raining. Of course an hour later I felt differently and for a moment I thought about stopping at the next shelter but I didn’t. I pushed on and met my goal for today, and I’m glad I did. The rain stopped around 12:30pm and the rest of the afternoon I hoped I would make it to this tentsite before it started to rain again. And I did!

When I got to the gap I got an orange from a couple who are thru hikers, but they are taking a break so they are doing trail magic. They mostly just had beer but I happily took an orange. I talked to them for a few minutes and then bid them happy hiking while I walked up there trail for a few minutes to find the tentsite. Nice spot. I am tired today; the rain makes it hard to stop for breaks so I don’t take breaks. And that makes me tired.

Tomorrow I’ll skip the town of Erwin and hike up to a shelter about 15 miles from here. It’s supposed to rain on and off for the next few days which makes me a little grumpy but I can handle it. And I’m really not that grumpy. Really. Just tired. So now it’s time for bed.

May 17 Day 59 No Business Knob Shelter

I cruised downhill for about 7 miles when I decided to stop and have second coffee. I tried to dry my tent but the sun was not strong enough at 9am. So I hiked another mile or so to Uncle Johnny’s Hostel. There was plenty of sun there and my tent was dry in no time. Even though I was not staying there as a guest the owner let me hang out, use the internet, fill my water bottles and wash my handkerchief. With soap! Yay!

I was sitting at a picnic table outside charging my phone and talking with some other hikers. There are lots of hikers around because the hostel runs a shuttle up to Damascus for Trail Days, which is an AT festival held there every year. Odie, whom I met last year when I was hiking through the Mahousic Notch, was also shuttling hikers. I’m so glad I’m not going. Anyway, one hiker looked familiar and turns out I met him last year at Speck Pond Shelter. He was a SOBO too. Now he’s back hiking NOBO. We talked northern trail a bit and then he got on a shuttle. I hiked out soon after and I made it here to the shelter about 20 minutes after a huge thunder storm. It has let up now but I have a feeling there will be more. Tomorrow I hike up higher and there are some more bald mountains and I don’t want to be on them in a thunder storm hits. I may get up super early and head out then to beat the storms. Or I may stay at a shelter 10 miles from here on the north side of the balds. But I would like to hike more than ten miles tomorrow so I’ll probably be on trail by 5:30 or something. Hmmm. I have time to figure it out.

May 18 Day 60 Tentsite south of Big Bald

It rained hard all night. I had a hard time sleeping, I usually do in shelters. Yard Sale was up around 5am and I was up and fetching my food bag out of a nearby tree soon after. It was very wet. But the rain seemed like it was tapering off which was good.

I had four fairly big climbs today and halfway up the second one I took some time to take photos. These small creeks that the rain creates are full of quartz and I got some good shots of the misty woods. Just spectacular.

A few hours later I finally came up on Big Bald, and while it was not as dramatic as the Roan Highlands, I was pretty happy to be up there. I just love all these balds. I was glad the thunder storms had held off.

Four miles later I arrived here on this tiny ridge above a spring. A good spot. Of course I am by myself; many of the NOBOs are at Trail Days and this spot is kind of out of the way. Since I’ll be heading to a hostel tomorrow morning, I can use my battery power for watching Netflix! What luxury! This is the first time on trail I have done this.

Only 321 miles to Springer.

May 19 Day 61 Nature’s Way Hostel

I slept in until 6am and was strolling down the trail by 7. A nice lazy morning. I hiked three and a half miles in about and hour and a half. Nice misty morning walking. I ran into a NOBO who said he was just dropped off by the hostel folks. I grabbed my phone and called them; luck! Sara was waiting for me at the trailhead. Perfect timing! A very nice woman, her and her husband Taft run this place. It’s by far the best hostel I’ve come across. We got here and she showed me around the common room, an old barn converted into a giant biker style hangout space. Several small cabins are lined up along the creek. A bunkhouse is at the bottom of the hill, and a house with three bedrooms is up top near the road. Their personal home is across the street. I opted to get a room in the house. So far I’m the only one here.

It’s been a tough push to get here and it is nice to have a nearo day. Thunder storms are in the forecast for the next week or so, but it looks like I may have decent weather in the Smokies. No snow, so that is good.

May 20 Day 62 Jerry’s Cabin Shelter

I slept a deep sleep. I woke once around 3am to pee and I was glad I slept with the windows open; the creek was roaring all night. A white noise kind of sound. I fell right back asleep. I woke refreshed and went to the kitchen to eat breakfast, drink some coffee and survey the trail ahead of me. Several climbs, and then a downhill to the shelter. 18 miles. I wanted to make it there. And I did.

Dream Catcher and Painless, two section hikers from North Carolina arrived yesterday evening and we talked trail for some time. They have section hiked most of the trail and since I’ve hiked most of it too we shared stories about certain memorable parts. It was nice to have some company.

When I arrived here around 4:30 they were already here; they got dropped off at Devil’s Fork Gap so they were 8 miles ahead of me.

I pitched my tent and made dinner and we talked trail with father and son NOBOs.

It reminded me of last summer when I was hiking the 100 Mile Wilderness and I’d talk to the NOBOs who were almost done with their adventure. Now, I’m the one almost done, coming across hikers who are at the first part of their adventure.

300.3 miles to go.

How do I feel? I feel strong. I feel grateful that I had a good rest day. I am ready for the next challenges, for the next three weeks. I am ready to feel the joy of completing a huge accomplishment.

Postscript:

While Sara at Nature’s Way had an adequate resupply, it was lacking any substantial breakfast options. I figured I’d just make due for the next two days until I got to Hot Springs. Then Dream Catcher asked me if I wanted some of his extra food, and of course I said yes. He gave me a Mountain House granola and blueberries! Sweet! And some chocolate, dehydrated broccoli, and some noodles. Thank you Dream Catcher!

The trail provides.

May 21 Day 63 Rich Mt. Tentsite

I was munching down on fancy granola and blueberries at 5:30am. A good start to a rather uneventful day. I ended up crushing 19 miles to get here and the last 6 miles were brutal. Very high humidity and heat with bugs.

Bugs.

They have arrived and I am actually surprised I got this far without seeing them. I’d love to say they serve as a motivator but they just annoy the heck out of me. There’s no upside with bugs.

I am hoping that they won’t be in the Smokies. I’ll find out on Friday.

There are a god number of hikers here, and several young men are camped next to me. They were smoking cigarettes, and the smoke came into my tent. I asked them politely if they wouldn’t mind moving downwind from me; one of them apologized and moved. The other looked at me and kept smoking. Then he said: “I bet you feel powerful, telling smokers to move because you don’t like the smoke. You probably feel superior, right?”

“No, I don’t feel powerful. I feel free. All the years I smoked I was a prisoner. Now I’m free.”

Now that I am hitting the last of the NOBO bubble, I’m hitting lots of the party hikers. Often times they are not respectful of the experiences of other hikers.

It’s part of the trail, and sometimes it’s hard for me to accept that.

Postscript:

This morning as I was scrambling over some rocks I came across a NOBO. I stood to the side of the trail to let her pass. As she did, she stopped and said, “Hey, were you on the PCT in 2016?”

“Yes, I sure was. Oregon and Washington.”

“I remember your Ken doll! You were hiking with another woman.”

“Yes! Iron Lady. I’m Cougar.”

“I’m Hummingbird. I know we met somewhere but I can’t remember where!”

We talked trail for another few moments and marveled at the smallness of the hiker world. This encounter really made my day!

May 22 Day 64 Hot Springs, NC

I hiked 8 miles in three hours and got into town before the PO closed for lunch. I sent a resupply to Standing Bear Farm & Hostel for the Smokies. So glad I won’t have to go into Gatlinburg to resupply. I’d rather spend my money here. This has been an expensive stop but it is probably the last stop of this kind, where I have to buy gear, fuel and stuff like that. Still, I am under budget so I am happy.

I’m in a tavern and I just ordered a bacon cheeseburger.

After this, since I have most of my hiker chores done, including printing my Smokies permit at the library, I’ll head over to Elmer’s and check in. I got a $25 room and I heard they make an awesome dinner too.

I still feel like I’m in a tractor beam, being pulled to Springer Mt. I have to force myself to stop and rest.

When I was in high school I was on the swim team, and my favorite race was the 200M. The race is all about pacing. When I jumped off the block, I didn’t go all out right away. I’d have nothing left for the final 50M. So instead, the race is a slow build of speed, until the last 50M, when I would go all out.

I feel like once I get out of the Smokies, I’ll be jumping off the block. Slowly building that momentum. Until the last 50 miles when I’ll give it my all.

I can’t wait.

Later that same day:

I’m in my room, Elmer’s Sunnybank Inn rents rooms to thru hikers for $25. The house is huge and was built in the 1840s, and has had few renovations. It’s gorgeous.

I did my laundry by hand out back since the only laundromat in town does not have functioning machines.

I am happy to be carrying only two days of food until I get to Standing Bear. Tomorrow I will hike up Max Patch, a famous section of trail. I’m looking forward to it, and hopefully the weather will hold. Rain is in the forecast off and on for the next week. Should make the Smokies interesting. I’ll hike into the park Friday morning and spend the next four days after that hiking through it.

Then I’ll really be on the home stretch.

274.5 miles left.

May 5 Day 47 Trimpi Shelter

This morning I was up and eating waffles at 6:15.

Wow.

Thank the universe for modern medicine, I thought to myself. I felt great, finally. I tentatively drank about 3 oz of coffee and an hour later I was still feeling good.

I learned that the public transportation in Marion does not run to the AT on Saturday, just Monday-Friday. So around 9am, after watching some more Star Wars, I called Jim Sparks again and he picked me up 15 minutes later. He had another hiker with him who needed to run a couple of errands. We also picked up another hiker from a motel and then we headed back to the trail.

I happily hefted my pack and started down the trail. It felt so good! Man. Good to be back.

I got a couple of thundershowers but I didn’t care. I’m back!

After 10 miles I decided to stop here at the shelter, I wanted to take it easy my first day back out and I wasn’t sure what the weather would do. After seeing a GIANT spider in the shelter I weighed the options in my head: if I sleep in the shelter and it rains, I’ll have a dry tent in the morning. But there will be spiders and mice. If I pitch my tent, there will be no critters, and if it rains tonight, I should get a chance to dry my tent out tomorrow.

I pitched my tent and I’m so glad I did.

About 10 NOBOs have showed up and they are super nice but I’m not keen on sleeping in a full shelter.

Tomorrow I’ll hike up into the Greyson Highlands, a very famous part of the trail and very beautiful. There are wild ponies! One of the NOBOs showed me a photo of a baby pony. I hope I get to see one!

May 6 Day 48 The Scales

The Scales is a large corral at the northern end of Greyson Highlands State Park. It’s beautiful. This was my goal for today and I’m glad I made the 17.5 miles to get here.

I left camp with a wet tent, but I was hoping the weather forecast would be right in its prediction of some sun today.

I got my chance around 11:30 halfway up the second big climb of the day. Flat spot, lots of sun. I dried my tent and rain fly and had some lunch. About 45 minutes later is started pouring and it rained for a good two and a half hours. I was halfway up my third big climb of the day when I ran into Papi, who is 87 and thru hiking. We complimented each other on our respective rain gear and as I wished him happy hiking and turned back to the trail I thought about what I’ll be like when I’m 87.

I stopped at the Old Orchard Shelter to take a break from the rain and chatted with some NOBOs. It was nice to sit in a dry spot for a bit. They told me that once I got up into the highlands I’d see plenty of ponies.

An hour later I got to the top of the climb and did a little dance and ate a Lara Bar. Then I checked my GPS, hefted my pack and set it for the last 1.8 miles.

Sometimes 1.8 miles seems like 5 miles. Sometimes it goes by in a heartbeat. But at the end of a rainy day with lots of gain 1.8 is an eternity. I finally made it around the bend to the corral and quickly found a spot to pitch my tent within the corral. It keeps the ponies out! They are beautiful. Several are running around along the fence and others are grazing on the new grass that is everywhere.

Tomorrow as I hike over the highlands I’ll see more ponies and hopefully the baby pony Aladdin told me about yesterday.

I feel good, pleased to have met my goal and I’m happy to be in some new terrain. I’m above the tree line which is cool; I haven’t been above the tree line since the Whites.

I think I’ll sleep good here.

May 7 Day 49 Whitetop Mountain Ridge Tentsite

Coyotes woke me up around 2am and then again at 4am, much closer, but I went right back to sleep both times. I slept well and woke up to clear skies and a beautiful sunrise. I saw ponies running around outside of the corral and as I ate my breakfast in my sleeping bag I watched the sky turn pink. I cuddled up again and was about to drift off but nope, I was awake and soon taking down my tent.

It was a great morning; I felt strong and it was nice to have a change in scenery. Open fields, rocks and small trees dominated the landscape and I could see where the trail would eventually take me in the State Park. A couple of hours later I came across a mother pony and her baby. I didn’t get too close to them, but close enough to get a photo without bothering them too much.

I chatted with some day hikers and a NOBO, and after a second breakfast I was climbing up towards Mt. Rogers. I had fun on this stretch as the trail squeezes between two large boulders. This area also really reminded me of Maine and New Hampshire. I found myself thinking of trail days in the past, on the AT and the PCT.

As I began the descent out of the Greyson Highlands I came across several NOBOs who told me about trail magic at Elk Garden Gap, just a couple of miles away. I arrived to find a handful of NOBOs and several trail angels who had so much stuff! Pasta salad, sandwiches, snacks, homemade cookies, fruit, salad, drinks, hiker foods like Clif bars and Knorr Pasta sides to take with, all kinds of things. I sat in the sun and ate a variety of things as I chatted with the hikers and the trail angels. One of the trail angels said to me, “If everyone in this country treated each other the way the hiking community treated each other, so many problems would be solved.”

Truth.

As the angles packed up the hikers did so as well and I hiked off with a full heart and stomach. It was a nice 2.5 mile hike up here to the tentsite near a gushing spring. Thunder followed me for the last quarter mile but it was to the east.

After I had dinner and hung my food bag a small shower rolled through, and hopefully that will be it. Tomorrow looks like a nice hike, but I have to say, today was one of the best hiking days I’ve had this spring. The ponies, the terrain, the people, all these things combined made for a very memorable day.

May 8 Day 50 Laurel River Tentsite

I woke to pink skies. It had cleared overnight and I was hopeful for a sunny and warm day. My tent was still wet from the night before, but I wasn’t concerned.

I was hiking by 7am and since I camped at a high elevation (over 5,000 feet), and the ridge was relatively treeless, I had stunning views of the valleys below, mostly covered by fast moving fog. It was windy, but not too cold. A good sign. I’ve had my share of cold wind. I had a nice long descent ahead of me and I was looking forward to some easy miles to start my day. It was beautiful. Before long I found myself in an open area with views on all sides. I happily made my way down, and before I knew it I was 6 miles into my day and I had arrived at Lost Mt Shelter. I got my tent out in the sun to dry and sat down for some snacks. I chatted with some NOBOs and took my time. It felt rather luxurious to take a longer break early in the day. Lately I’ve been switching my schedule up, trying to take my time more and it just pound away the miles. I still reach my daily goals and it feels like I am enjoying myself more. What? I am enjoying myself more!

Anyway, I was back at it and the next few hours went by rather quickly. When I dropped down again to the river I was ready to stop for the day. I’ve got a lovely spot near the water all to myself, so far anyway, and it feels good. I always love to camp next to rivers.

Tomorrow I have a five mile hike into Damascus, the trail goes right through the town, and I’m hoping to find a breakfast joint so I can have an omelette. Funny the things I find myself craving out here.

This has been a good stretch and tomorrow I’ll get some hiker chores done and pitch my tent at the Woodchuck Hostel in town. I’m not needing a bed just yet.

May 10 Day 51 Woodchuck Hostel, Damascus.

It was an easy five mile hike into town this morning and my first stop was at Mojo’s Coffee. I inhaled an omelette and potatoes with toast. I sat there for awhile and updated my social media, then I continued on my way through town. There are several outfitters here and I thought I might get lucky and find one that sells hip belts for my Osprey pack (Frankenpack). I knew it was a long shot, and so I was pleasantly surprised to see the exact hip belt I was looking for at Mt. Rogers Outfitters. The folks there were very helpful and gave me a good deal. They also gave me some free hiker snacks and we talked trail for a bit and then I was in my way, stuffing free energy chews and honey waffle bars into my pockets. I love getting trail magic like that. The kindness of strangers.

I arrived here at the hostel and after a nice shower, laundry and a good tent cleaning session I am done with chores. So now I’m sitting in the shade with Abby, Woodchuck’s cat, who has decided I am acceptable company.

Another beautiful day on the AT.

April 28 Day 40 Angel’s Rest Hiker’s Haven Zero Day

Ahhh, a Zero Day. Zeroliscious. This has been a good place to take a day off. I did walk over to the store and buy some more food to eat today. A good idea. I got chicken tenders and some microwave burritos. Decent.

I spent today hanging out in the sun finishing the Michael Connelly book I have been reading since Daleville. I really want to read Ready Player One, since it seems like everyone is reading it but I can’t find it at Rite Aid and I don’t want to download it on my phone. I’ll come across a copy, I’m sure.

It’s been nice talking with the caretakers here and the other hikers. My friends Trial and Error are here, so it’s nice to catch up with them. No word from Double Vision, Cheesesteak or Lucky Boy.

Time now to go eat my Hot Pockets and go to bed. Doing nothing all day has made me tired!

April 29 Day 41 Woods Hole Hostel

I feel like a pampered princess. Tonight will be the third, THIRD night in a row that I have spent in a hostel. But I could not miss this place. It’s one of the oldest hostels in the trail, the bunkhouse was built in the 1840s out of chestnut. Same with the main house. Of course there have been some renovations but essentially not much has changed. Neville and her husband Michael run the place; Neville’s grandparents discovered the place in 1940.

This place is special. I can feel it when I walk through the main house, and the bunkhouse. The land feels sacred. I can’t stop running my hands over the chestnut beams that constitute the bunkhouse. While sitting at the dinner table I would catch myself staring up at the beams overhead.

Dinner.

Both Neville and her husband are master gardeners. At a time when most farms are bare (it’s been a late spring here) they have all sorts of things growing in raised beds in front of the main house.

The first courses were a giant salad, homemade bread just out of the oven, hummus and egg salad.

I hadn’t realized how much I was craving greens.

Then, rice with homemade red sauce and sausage. Another rice dish with soy sauce and greens and sausage. Tortilla soup. Bread.

Everything is made from scratch.

After dinner I sat on the couch and talked with Bear Charmer, an older woman who helps Neville the same way she helped her Grandmother Tilly. A cat ran across the room and jumped on my lap, purring and head butting me. Over the course of my stay I had similar encounters with different cats. So nice to be around animals.

Neville served up homemade peanut butter ice cream on cones and after that I walked back to the bunkhouse, and here I am almost ready to fall blissfully asleep.

I’d like to mention that I found the book Ready Player One in the book exchange here. The trail provides.

I can see the full moon rising through the trees out the window.

April 30 Day 42 Brushy Mountain Tentsite

I walked out of Woods Hole after thanking Neville for her profound kindness and wonderful food. If I am ever in this part of the country again I will go out of my way to stay here again. Simply a magical experience.

That’s what the AT is all about.

Sometimes!

I hiked down a ridge into the Dismal Creek valley and followed the creek for about 10 miles of nice hiking. I saw many NOBOs, and I stopped to chat with Farm All, a retired trucker from Vermont who collects Farm All tractors, hence the trail name. He’s making very good time on the trail and we shared war stories about snow and freezing temps. After fist bumping (hikers never shake hands, who knows what’s on them!) we wished each other happy hiking and I went along my way.

I started feeling a bit nauseous and the feeling lingers still. Could be any number of things. Few things are more uncomfortable than hiking with a hip belt and having stomach pain. Yuck.

Hopefully it will be gone by tomorrow and I’ll be back to eating a ton of trail food. Maybe the real food I had at Woods Hole threw me off. Who knows!

I’m camped up on a ridge with a NOBO and it is beautiful up here. The trees aren’t quite filled out so I have views of all the farms below.

It’s going to be a nice night.

May 4 Day 46 Econo Lodge, Marion

The local public transportation picked me up this morning and dropped me at the hospital. The doctor said I probably had giardia, and wrote me a prescription. As I was standing outside of the emergency room an older gentleman walked up to me and started talking about the trail. Big Tom is a farmer who lives in the area and he likes to give hikers a ride when he sees them. He offered me a lift over to Walmart to get my prescription filled and was also keen on showing me his brand new truck. Super nice guy.

I got some healthy food in Walmart and waited for my meds. Some fruit, oatmeal and bagels to pack out on this next stretch.

I have to constantly remind myself that things like this are part of the trail too, and that even though it gets me down, that feeling will pass. I recognize it for what it is and let it go. Of course it is helpful to have the support and encouragement of friends and loved ones. And strangers.

April 21 Day 33 Zero Day Daleville

Here at the Super 8 and it has exceeded my expectations. Probably because the continental breakfast includes a waffle maker. Two, in fact. I was up at 5:30 am because that’s when I get up every day. I was watching the news, eating waffles and drinking coffee by 6 am. Some laundry, another shower, some gear cleaning and then I walk over to the Goodwill to find a hat.

No dice. I was forced to go to the outfitter and buy a hat there. Oh well, that’s ok.

I spent the afternoon watching a Resident Evil marathon on the Sci Fi channel and fooling around on social media.

And now that it’s 8pm it is way past my bedtime.

April 22 Day 34 Catawaba Shelter

After another waffle session I was on trail before 7am. Not bad! I felt great. I need to take more zero days, I told myself. The motel zero day is the top tier zero day, the shelter zero day being not the greatest. I’d like to say they are the best, but let’s be honest here.

I climbed up about 1,000 feet and then followed a ridge line for 10 miles to Lambert shelter where I had lunch. Then another 1,000 feet up to Tinker Cliffs. Stunning views! I could see McAffe Knob, a very iconic spot on the AT. I decided to hike up the Knob and over to the shelter on he south side. Glad I did! I got my photo taken and sat there for a bit. I’m still amazed that I have made it this far. And it’s pretty special to me to be in such a beautiful and well known spot.

I’m in my tent with a full belly and a happy heart.

April 23 Day 35 Pickle Branch Shelter

Woowee! What a day. I was on trail at 6am because I wanted to get to the Post Office in Catawaba as soon as possible. Even though they open at 9am, I was hopeful I could get a ride into town and didn’t mind waiting.

Score! Thank you section hikers, who had just finished their section and were heading home.

I got to the PO and sat down on the curb for a long wait. Around 8:15 the postmaster came outside and asked me if I just wanted to pick up a box.

Yes ma’am!

I got my package, arranged my pack and was on my way. Immediately I got a ride, from two thru hikers from 2012, Bearsnack and Raincatcher, with their dog Baby. They dropped me right where I left off and I hustled and hustled up to the Dragon’s Tooth, another iconic rock formation on the trail. I got up there around 11am, before the rain, which was my goal. I had hiked hard and fast all morning, something I don’t do often. I hike at around 2 mph, and this morning I was doing 2.5 or more. Anyway. I was happy that I only had four more miles to go to the shelter, and since I had finished the tough, technical climb up the Dragon’s Tooth, I was less worried about the rain.

I got here to the shelter around 1:30 and set up in the shelter. I really don’t like sleeping in shelters anymore but I like packing up a wet tent even less, and since tomorrow is supposed to be rainy, I know that I won’t have a chance to dry a wet tent.

So here I am with Pacemaker, a section hiker from Delaware, Hoot, a NoBo from Colorado and Bigfoot, a section hiker from Pennsylvania. The rain has come and I am happy to be here. A good day!

April 24 Day 36 Sarver Hollow Shelter

It rained all night and this morning as I prepared to leave the shelter I joked with Pacemaker: “At least it’s not freezing rain!”

Ha.

I walked the .3 miles to the AT from the shelter and felt warm. That was the last time I felt warm pretty much all day. I climbed up 1,700 feet to the Blue Ridge in the rain and felt ok, until I got to the top and massive gusts, maybe 40 to 50 mph blasted me from the east. The rain was so heavy that even my clothes under my rain gear were wet.

It was barely 9am and I still had 14 miles to hike to get here. My supposedly waterproof rain mitts that go in over my gloves failed and I had small pools of water inside them. I spent some time cursing ZPacks and then decided that I’m just too hard core for these mitts.

Throughout the day I had several mantras that I spoke aloud:

1.) Spring will come.

2.) I will be warm again.

3.) You’re a fucking badass (this I saved for the last 4 miles).

I hiked down and then back up the Blue Ridge because hey, why not? This time I traversed the ridge for some time climbing up and over rocks, sliding sideways over wet rocks as the wind kicked my cold wet ass all over the place.

I got to the top and read a sign that said: Eastern Continental Divide

So that’s why the trail is so rugged!

I decided this would be a good place to take a break and eat something; I had only stopped hiking two other times for a couple of minutes to get water and pee.

After two minutes I was freezing and I realized that it was sleeting.

Fuck this.

I moved my ass down that ridge, over more sideways slabs of rock and thorns and giant puddles of mud.

As I rounded an uphill corner I saw that blessed sign:

Sarver Hollow Shelter .4

And here I am in my dry clothes, wet clothes hanging up to dry.

I have a full belly and a dry sleeping bag. Now I will go to sleep.

Spring will come.

I will be warm.

I’m a fucking badass.

April 25 Day 37 War Spur Shelter

Last night as I was falling asleep I heard what I thought were footsteps. I thought, oh, another hiker is here, and I turned over to grab my headlamp.

There was no one there.

I decided to pitch my tent in the shelter, very bad trail etiquette, but it was 9pm and I didn’t think anyone would come along. I was right. I had a hard time getting to sleep though and woke several times during the night to the sound of footsteps.

Hmmmm.

It took me a long time this morning to get going and I was finally back up on trail around 7:30. So late! It was slow going and I stopped for many breaks. I knew I had put my body through the ringer the day before so I decided to have a short day and go 12.5 miles here to this shelter.

About half way through my day I stopped at another shelter for a rest and snack. I met Shivers and Sink, section hikers who asked me if I stayed at Sarver’s Hollow. I said yes and they asked me if I heard anything unusual. I told them about the footsteps and then I remembered waking up in the middle of the night with goosebumps all down my spine.

“Oh! No way! That is what some hikers say! It’s totally haunted!”

Well then. There was a very distinct energy about the place and while the shelter was nice, with the Kerouac quote in the plaque and the covered patio, I was happy to leave.

Interesting.

I got here to the shelter and met several NOBOs, and while I am tenting tonight, Postcard and Silver are sleeping in the shelter. Professor and Granite hung out and ate with us for some time and it was all good conversation.

This is been a tough stretch and I’ll be happy to get to Pearisburg on Friday. Tomorrow will be a big day and I think that after a good rest tonight I’ll be ready. Hopefully ghosts will leave me alone.

April 26 Day 38 Dickinson Gap Tentsite

I woke up feeling well rested and was hiking up a long ridge at 6:30am. Feeling good. Strong. I walked along this ridge for several hours, sometimes coming across small springs swollen with the recent rain. I stopped around 9am at a very nice viewpoint but I didn’t stay long; the cold was lingering on the high ridges and breaks that lasted longer than 5 minutes made me cold.

As the trail slowly descended I came across a shelter littered with trash. I had found a broken umbrella earlier and decided to clean the place up. I filled my existing garbage bag and strapped a broken trekking pole to the outside of my pack. Trash like this is usually left by long distance hikers who should know better.

As I reached the bottom of the ridge I hiked along a river for awhile and through another rhododendron forest. I knew I was going to spend the night up on the next ridge and that there would be no water up there. I came to another shelter and found an empty Gatorade bottle that another hiker has left; there was a pink lighter inside and some other trash. I took out the trash and rinsed the bottle out; now I would be able to carry some extra water up the ridge for tomorrow morning. And pack out trash at the same time. Yay!

As I was hiking up the next ridge I came across Badass Betty, a section hiker in her 60s. We chatted a bit and after hiking on a bit I checked my phone and found that I finally had cell reception. I called Keith and it was good to talk to him, as always. Then I called Angel’s Rest Hiker Haven, a hostel in Pearisburg. I reserved a bunk for one night; this stretch has been a tough one and I felt like I earned a night in a bed.

I reached the tentsite I had been shooting for and I set up my tent just before it started raining.

Again.

I cooked dinner in the vestibule of the tent and hung my food. Now I’m reading and looking forward to some town time.

April 27 Day 39 Angel’s Rest Hiker Haven, Pearisburg

I slept fitfully and started hiking through the fog around 6am. I felt tired, spent and very much looking forward to a rest. I decided to take another zero day at the hostel and when I finally got to the trailhead near town I was so happy to be picked up and shuttled to the hostel. I met Handy, the caretaker and I asked if I could stay two nights and he said no problem. Yay!

I walked over to the grocery store and got resupply for the next stretch and some food for my hostel stay. Laundry and a shower were next and then I hit up the AYCE (all you can eat) Chinese buffet.

I’m cozied up in the bunk room with several other hikers and I could not be happier. Great folks, nice spot and a good rest. Just what I needed to prepare for the next stretch.

April 17 Day 29 Part Two Matt’s Creek Shelter

Donna from the hostel offered to drop me back at the trailhead because she was picking up two hikers. Before I left, Squirrel, a NOBO, gave me a couple of cherry brownies he made. So nice! And tasty. As we drove up to the trail Donna and I chatted and I watched the scenery; the trees are just starting to bud out and it is gorgeous. Virginia is awesome. One of my favorite states so far.

We pulled into the parking lot and I saw Cheesesteak and Lucky Boy; two SOBO Flip Floppers. They camped at Punchbowl last night. Super nice guys. We chatted briefly and I may run into them tomorrow if they slack pack. Slack packing is when a hiker hikes without their backpack. Either someone, like a shuttle driver, will meet you somewhere at the end of the day with your pack (you just hike with snacks and water) or they will pick you up and take you back to the hostel or motel for another night. I’ve never done it, but lots of hikers love to do it and jump at the chance.

I hiked an easy two miles up to the shelter and found a weekender named Spencer here. We chatted over dinner, and now I’m cozy in my tent listening to the creek. It turned out to be a sunny and decidedly springlike afternoon.

April 18 Day 30 Cornelius Creek Shelter

My first task of the day was jumping over Matt’s Creek without getting my shoes wet. Mission accomplished. It’s all easy from here, I said to myself.

Hmmmm.

After over 4,000 feet of gain I am beat. I was up and over Highcock Knob by 9:30 but Thunder Ridge took it outta me. The ascent was not steep, just long, long, long. Near the top I came across a trail crew. I thanked them for their hard work and one of the volunteers gave me a blueberry fig bar. I love those things. This is my favorite kind of trail magic. Different sections of the trail are maintained by groups of volunteers, and without them, the trail would not be what it is.

Near the summit of Thunder Ridge is a rock formation called the Guillotine. A giant bolder is trapped between two other boulders, and the AT passes right under the boulder. Pretty cool, literally, as there was still snow in the cool recesses of the stone.

I called Keith from the summit and chatted with him for a bit to get some motivation for the last four miles to the shelter. For much of those four miles the AT wound through rhododendron forests. Green! So nice.

I met Eagle and Ibex here at the shelter and it’s nice to have company. We chatted trail and have now gone to our respective tents for the evening.

April 19 Day 31 Bobblets Gap Shelter

My morning routine revolves around several events, as follows:

1) a visit to the privy

2) breakfast and coffee

3) packing up gear

4) taking down the tent

On mornings like today when it is raining, this is the sequence of events. When it is sunny, I’ll take the tent down as I eat breakfast and pack up my things. Sometimes the privy visit is the last thing I do before leaving camp. It only rained for about 20 minutes, which was good. I was on trail by 6:30, my usual time. A short climb, then a long downhill to Bryant Ridge Shelter, a very cool shelter with room for about 20 hikers. Neat place. I had second breakfast there and headed out. It was a nice day of trail; not too much ascent, not too much descent, lots of ridge walking. Nice. Except the wind blowing in from the west that was very cold and strong. There was a time of sunny calm where I was able to dry my tent. This is always a priority when carrying a wet tent.

I got down here to the shelter which is somewhat out of the wind, but not completely. Two other hikers, Kiwi and Jess are here and we chatted while we made dinner. And now here I am in my tent next to the shelter because there are no tent spaces anywhere else. Four NOBOs with a dog showed up; they are cooking food now, but soon after camp will be quiet with sleeping hikers.

April 20 Day 32 Daleville Super 8

I was up early as usual and bouncing down the Blue Ridge that I have been following since Front Royal, waiting for my morning sunrise shot. I was looking forward to staying at the shelter on Fullhardt Knob; it’s rumored to have 360 views and now that the trees are starting to bid out I wanted to take advantage of all opportunities to get views.

I was pretty cold the first four hours of the day and resorted to putting on my rain mitts (water and wind proof overmitts) over my gloves and soon my hands warmed up. Around 11am the sun took over and I finally warmed up.

I made good time and got to the shelter around 1:30. A quick 14 miles. Once I got there, I got water from the cistern there (the rain gutters funnel water into an underground cistern, very cool) and decided, what the heck, I’m going to hike five more miles into town and get a room, and take a zero day Saturday.

I made a good decision for sure. I got into town and stopped by the Howard Johnson to pick up the package Keith sent me. I was going to stay there but several hikers told me that it’s not a good place to stay, so I opted to stay at the Super 8. Good choice. Once I check in I walked down the road to the outdoor store; time to get bug spray and a new spoon, finally! I went into the Kroger to resupply, and found myself wandering around the deli area. A woman who was handing out meat samples saw me and asked me, “honey, what do you do to look so healthy? Look at you!”

“Well, I’m hiking the AT.”

“Ohhh, you’re hungry, here.” She gave me several samples of smoked turkey. “And here, you can’t shop hungry.” She gave me some cheese samples too.

I love Virginia!

I picked up a cheap novel since I finished Women Who Run With the Wolves, and everything else I need.

Back at my room I thought about how great Virginia has been, and how far I have come in this past month. It’s kind of amazing to me that I’ve made it through the weather I have experienced.

I sat in front of the TV and ate some of the trail food Keith, my amazing and intuitive boyfriend, sent me. He also sent me his pocket rocket stove since mine has finally kicked the bucket. I’m lucky to have such a special man in my life.

Tomorrow, a zero day laying around, cleaning my gear and taking multiple baths. Yes!

April 12 Day 24 Maupin Field Shelter

What a day! Stanimal dropped myself and three other hikers off at Rockfish Gap, literally exactly where I got off the trail the day before. Not that I’m a purist or anything. He took our photo and the three guys headed north and I, the lone SOBO, headed south. Because that’s what I do.

After five miles I came to the Paul Wolfe shelter and there were several NOBOs there, all guys, and we chatted for a bit. They were heading to Stanimal’s place for a nearo (nearly a zero, just a few miles hiked).

I got a liter of water from the creek and headed toward Humpback mountain.

And soon I realized that I did not take enough water. The sun came out and it got warm as I climbed up and soon, mostly after I ate my Subway sandwich for lunch, I knew I did not have enough water to be comfortable.

Some miles later when I got to the next water source I was so relieved. I drank a liter there and packed two out. I only had six more miles to the shelter but I knew I’d drink more than usual since I got myself all dehydrated.

Of course during those six miles there were about five more water sources, springs coming right out of gaps in the rock cliffs to my left. It was lovely.

It was a long 20.7 mile hike today but once I got here I felt better and relaxed. I realized that I was a bit grumpy during that last stretch and told myself yet again to not let that happen again with the water.

There’s a few Flip Floppers here and it’s nice to have company here. I have pitched my tent since the weather is lovely and I’m going to be asleep in about 30 minutes.

Another brutal and glorious day on the Appalachian Trail.

April 13 Day 25 The Priest Shelter

Another goal met today. I could have stayed down by the river and camped and been somewhat happy and hiked The Priest tomorrow morning but that’s not what I wanted. Granted, it was lovely to dunk my head in the ice cold river. I had hiked up Three Ridges mountain and then down, and it was hot. I filled my water bottles and began the four mile, 3,000 foot climb up. There was a small creek a third of the way up and so I stopped there and cameled up (drank as much water as I could) and packed out two liters for the rest of the climb. It was just enough.

I got to the shelter, which is just on the other side of the summit and was happy to see some women hikers. I usually only see men. I met Hoilday and her mom, Tagalong. Also, Powerhouse. All NOBOs, which means I won’t see them again. That’s ok, it was nice to talk with them and trade trail stories and share information. I like hiking by myself during the day, but it is really nice to share camp with people in the evening.

My Pocket Rocket stove is in its death throes; I’ve had it for several years now and the threads where it screws into fuel canisters are shot. I can coax it into working just barely. Keith has sent me his stove, and I should be able to pick it up Wednesday or Thursday in Daleville. I may take a zero day there too. I’ll be ready for one by then for sure.

So here I am in my tent, warm, fed, comfortable. My feet have that familiar hurt and I know they’ll be feeling good tomorrow morning. So now I think I’ll put in my earplugs and read until I doze off.

Goodnight Appalachian Trail!

April 14 Day 26 Cow Camp Shelter

Today was incredible! Ok, so I say that about a lot of days in trail, but today was an exception.

The trail sent me many signs that I am on the right path with my immediate plans and it recognized my needs.

Or, in other words, my needs have been met by chance encounter and good timing.

As I left The Priest Shelter I had the good fortune to encounter several women with whom I had excellent conversations. The first, Fran and Katie, were at the next shelter where I stopped in for my second breakfast. Fran is 79 years old and Katie is probably a few years older than me. Both started talking non stop as soon as I showed up. They are obviously good friends who know each other’s quirks well and it was fun to listen to them.

Fran gave me a Harper’s Ferry quarter for good luck and I stashed it in with my other good luck charms. I wished them happy hiking after a bit and I hope to see them today here at Cow Camp Shelter, since I am taking the day off (zero day) tomorrow.

After a few miles I ran into NOBOs No Shoes and Research. These women told me about Fresh Grounds, and said that he’d for sure be at Hog Camp Gap, 6 miles down the trail. We talked mice, shelters, men and hostels for a good 20 minutes before going on our respective ways. My spirits were lifted with good, strong positive female energy and I crushed the 6 miles to see Fresh Grounds.

He has a few tarps set up next to the trail by the trailhead parking lot and he said, “Welcome to the Leap Frog Cafe, have a seat, grab some Kool Aide and I’ll make you a salad. Then some chicken tenders and how about grilled cheese? Have a seat!” I grabbed a drink and sat down. Fresh Grounds is an AT hiker who also does trail magic like this when he’s not hiking. He drives to different spots up the trail to feed hikers for free.

I sat and ate salad, green beans, chicken tenders, French fries and grilled cheese until I could eat no more. Then some AT alumni from last year showed up with ice cream because they read on Facebook that Fresh Grounds was at this location and they happened to be nearby.

The trail community is pretty awesome.

We all sat and chatted when some weekenders hiked by and Fresh Grounds hailed them and told them to pull up a seat. He fed them too.

After I had somewhat digested the feast I had just inhaled I prepared to hike the last couple of miles to the shelter. Since Fresh Grounds packed me out with tons of food, fruit and sweets I realized I now had the chance to take the rare on trail zero day. Usually zero days are in town, and I don’t take trail zeros usually because I don’t have the food to do so. Now I did!

Once I got to the shelter the weekenders arrived just after me and pitched their tents. I decided to sleep in the shelter, but ended up pitching my tent in the middle of the night to escape the mice that kept crawling into my hair.

Yep. Crawling into my hair.

Anyway, we got more food from some groups that were camped over in the group tenting area, and even fortune cookies! I had more great conversations with some of the women in these hiking groups and some kids as well. I spent some time telling several kids about LNT (leave no trace) after I caught them trying to carve their names into the shelter. Then I told them how I always pick up trash I find and how it makes the wilderness nice for the next folks who come along. Then later in the evening I saw them walking around looking for trash.

Excellent!

April 15 Day 27 Cow Camp Shelter

Today is my first zero day, zero miles hiked. It’s cloudy, and not was supposed to have rained by not but it has not. Tonight big thunder storms are expected. A good, uneventful day of napping, reading and eating. And hydrating.

I ended up pitching my tent around midnight last night because mice were getting into my hair. Ugh. No more shelters for me.

April 16 Day 28 Punchbowl Shelter

I was up at 5:30 and it was still raining. I moved my stuff over to the shelter so I wouldn’t have to pack up in the rain. Rollercoaster, a section hiker, was snoring away. I shined my red light headlamp up and saw two huge mice up in the rafters staring down at me. Like something out of a Hitchcock movie. So creepy!

I was outta there and happy to be hiking. The rain stopped and it was blustery most of the morning. I hiked up and over a ridge and followed several overflowing creeks for about 8 miles. I had to get my shoes wet a few times but that’s ok. They are almost dry now.

I wanted to push a few miles past the shelter but a ranger I ran into crossing a road said that high winds are expected up on the ridge line and it is supposed to drop to about 30 tonight. And there’s no water up there. So here I am.

I’ll be up early hiking 10 miles to Glasgow for resupply, laundry and battery charging. Then I’ll hike two miles to the next shelter. A good day today. Tired and happy.

April 17 Day 29 Glasgow

This morning was cold, but not so bad. Until I climbed up the ridge. High winds, snow flurries and cold stayed with me for 9 miles until I got close to highway 501. The sun came out abt the walk next to the creek was lovely. I got lucky and caught a ride into town with the shuttle driver from Stanimal’s hostel. He has one down here too. So I came to the hostel and for a small fee I get a shower, laundry and a ride back to the trail later this afternoon. I did a hasty resupply at Dollar General and finally got my burger at Scottos.

So now I have some time to relax, shower and warm up. It’s a short 2 mile hike south to the next shelter, but I’m sure I’ll be tenting after the mouse fiasco at Cow Camp.

So I’m watching Sharknado 5 with some NOBOs, and making the most of this time indoors.

Another beautiful day on the Appalachian Trail.

April 9 Day 21 Pinefield Hut

I had a lazy morning in the motel room watching the news and drinking coffee. Around 9:30 I went to the front office and asked if anyone could give me a ride to Swift Run Gap. Doug, the maintance guy said he’d take me up.

While I waited for Doug and drank more coffee, I watched the weather which called for flurries tapering off by noon and warmer temps. Good news for me. One more cold night. Just one more cold night then I’d be in the clear.

I hopped in Doug’s truck after slinging my pack in the back. Doug looks kind of like a surfer version of Iggy Pop. He talked nonstop about the motel with a cigarette hanging out of his mouth. At the trailhead I thanked him for his time and he told me, “you have fun out there honey, and be careful.”

With a wave and a smile I headed over to the trail and began the climb up Hightop mountain. I got nice and warmed up and in an hour the flurries stopped like clockwork and it was a misty 11 mile hike here to the Hut. I really wanted to keep hiking but I know that tomorrow I’ll be tenting so I thought I’d take advantage of the shelter. There’s a nice spring that runs right in front and a couple of other hikers are here; Dave, a section hiker from Colorado, and Shoemaker, a NOBO from New Hampshire. Nice guys. It’s nice having company in the evening.

Tomorrow I’ll do about 17 or so miles, which will be really nice. I am so ready to kick it up a notch.

April 10 Day 22 Wildcat Ridge Tentsite

I cannot say how good the sun and warmth feels. Extraordinary.

This morning at 5am when I got up to pee I could see the stars. Much of the snow melted overnight. I was instantly happy and wide awake. I got my food bag down from the bear pole and went into the shelter to make my trail mocha. But then I decided to get into my sleeping bag and try to go back to sleep but that was not happening. I often have this quandary. But usually, once I am awake that’s it, I’m starting my day. Lately I’ve been on trail by 6:30 which is good.

I made my mocha and sat in my sleeping bag drinking it, watching the sky slowly grow lighter. Around quarter six I started getting organized and by that time Dave, the section hiker who was also sleeping in the shelter was awake. I munched down on a Probar and was soon hefting my pack up and grabbing my trekking poles. I hiked up and up, getting to a viewpoint looking east. There was still much snow on the trees and everything looked so wintery. Gorgeous. I took some photos and wrote off a few texts and then I was on my way. I reached the Loft Mt. campground looking for water but the faucets were still off. A few miles later I tried the faucets at a picnic area and bingo! I got rid of some garbage in the garbage cans and used the bathroom, just because it was there.

I ran into some Flip Floppers, hikers who start their thru hike somewhere near the middle of the trail, hike one direction, reach a terminus and then return to where they started to hike to the other terminus. Most Flip Floppers I meet are hiking north. Still haven’t met any SOBOs. I’m a lone wolf.

Speaking of wolves I am about two thirds finished with Women Who Run With the Wolves by Clarissa Pinkola Estes. I’ve been meaning to read this book for years and years, and when I went into the local bookstore in Ukiah before leaving for the trail it was part of a women’s history month display. I took it as a sign and bought it, and I’m so glad I did.

I’m lying in my tent looking at the blue sky. It’s going to be cold tonight, around 28, but that’s ok. Tomorrow is a town day! Yay!

April 11 Day 23 Stanimal’s 328 Hostel, Waynesboro

I wasn’t planning on staying in a hostel so soon after getting a motel room but I heard so many good things about Stanimal (that’s his trail name) and this place that I decided to give it a go. It’s a block or two from everything a hiker needs; resupply, ice cream shop, Subway, and a steak house. I got a Subway sandwich to pack out on the trail tomorrow and I’m very excited about that.

Anyway.

Last night something was walking around in the leaves near my tent, and at one point it came up to my tent and growled. It wasn’t a bear so I’m not sure what it was. Too small to be a bear. I was perfectly still in my sleeping bag and after about 5 minutes I decided that since it didn’t attack, then I’m probably going to be fine. So I put in my earplugs and woke myself up at 5 am snoring and drooling on my inflatable pillow. As I was taking down my tent I heard a rustle in the leaves and the same growl and I said, “Ok, I get it, I’m leaving!” The growling stopped.

I still can’t figure out what kind of animal it was. Hmmmm.

I hiked 16.2 miles to Rockfish Gap in about 7 hours where Stanimal said he’d pick me up. I was a bit early so I headed over to the gourmet popcorn stand and got a hot dog with fries and Gatorade. They forgot my fries and to make up for it they made me a huge box of fries. Good by me! Whenever I get right off trail and eat I am always very self conscious because I kind of stuff my face. Fortunately there were not too many people around so I devoured that food in minutes flat.

Stanimal picked me up and we drove to the hostel here in Waynesboro and he showed me around. I claimed a little bunk in a tiny room with a window and put on loaner clothes while I washed my hiker clothes. I did my resupply and got sandwiches. And ice cream. Then a shower. Laundry is done. Now I can relax and get to bed early.

I’ll be out for 4 days to get to he next stop, Glasgow. On Friday I’ll climb a notorious mountain, The Priest, which I’m kind of excited about. I do love a big climb. Did I say that?

Another stellar day on the Appalachian Trail.

April 4 Day 16 Gravel Spring Hut

Possible came over to the Cabbin around 7am to make breakfast for myself and Don, an older gentleman who arrived at the Cabbin around 9pm last night. Don is not a hiker, he just likes to get away, he says. Turns out Don’s parents and my great grandmother were at Whittier College in the 1920s. Did they know each other? We both pondered this as we drank coffee and ate French toast.

I had such a great time at this place; good conversation and good people. It’s nice to meet folks who are down to earth and not competitive with something to prove.

I’m happy to be hiking by myself again (I have been for the last few days), and I set off for Gravel Springs Hut in the Shenandoah National Park. In the Park shelters are called Huts. Cute.

It was cloudy and rainy for the first four miles and then the wind picked up and blew the weather away. I felt like I was climbing all day, and in a sense I was. I got to the top of Marshall Mountain and it was clear and windy. Gorgeous.

The Appalachian Trail follows the Skyline Highway through the Park. I crossed it several times and saw the sign for the Hut. A lovely little spring runs next to it and so far I have the place to myself.

It looks like tomorrow is going to be nice weather so I’ll try for the Byrd’s Nest Hut about 18 miles down the trail.

Good night!

April 5 Day 17 Byrd’s Nest #3

What a day. I left camp before the sun came up and hiked on frozen trail for 6 miles to the Elkwallow Wayside. Waysides are little stores along the trail in the Park. I walked inside and immediately felt the relief of hot air. Then I saw the short order breakfast bar. Hot coffee, eggs, hash browns, toast and sausage made this hiker happy. The bathroom had hot water! Heaven. I washed my face and hands and headed back out to tackle the rest of my 19 mile day.

The trail was nice all day, gentle ups and downs, some section hikers to chat with and a nice big climb up here to the Nest. A lovely spot I am sharing with father and son section hikers. There is a fireplace in the shelter and I got a fire going when I got here. Helps keep critters away and I like the ambiance.

I feel great, it is nice to get a good day in before the weather comes in this weekend. Tomorrow evening I’ll be at the Big Meadows Campground; there’s a wayside there as well as a lodge. A good place to be in a storm. It’s not supposed to be s big one like the last storm! Thankfully.

April 6 Day 18 Big Meadow Campground

I hiked 15 miles in about 6 hours to get here to the campground. Usually I don’t like campgrounds because they are loud but I figured that since the weather is going to turn tomorrow that there wouldn’t be too many folks around. I was right. I found the ranger station and the helpful folks showed me the hiker/biker campsite behind the station for $5. Not bad. Right next to it is the showers and laundry. I know what I’m doing this evening! I thought to myself.

But first I walked down to the wayside to get a burger only to find that they were out of burgers. How can such a thing happen, I wondered as I ate my chicken sandwich. At least I still got French fries.

I did a quick resupply at the expensive wayside store and returned to do my laundry and take a long, hot shower. Ten minutes, exactly. I even had soap, shampoo and conditioner. What luxury.

So here I sit in the laundry mat trying to plan out the next four days and it all depends on the weather. To an extent. It’s gonna get cold and I guess I’m ready for that. I am just tired of the cold and really ready for some warmer temps. I’ll take what comes, as any hiker does, and make the most of it.

Now I have to go eat my salad because it is there. And I need my greens.

April 7 Day 19 Bearfence Hut

The forecast called for rain starting around midnight, high winds and then snow. When I woke up at 5am my tent was dry. Sweet! I got up, packed my things and walked over to the laundry room. It’s open 24 hours, which is nice. It was warm. I ate breakfast and made a trail mocha outside. I sat around and tried to decide what to do. Should I hike 8 miles to the next hut or 22 miles to the one after that? I decided to go for the easy day, and I’m glad I did, even if I feel like a lazy hiker for doing so. I got here around noon and made a fire just as the snow started coming down. I used the rainfly from my tent and made a little cubby inside the shelter to protect me from the wind. So far it’s working great! The fire is too far away to keep me warm but that’s ok. Whenever I get up to pee I warm up over the fire and jump back in my little cocoon.

A day hiker stopped by for a bit and asked me why I didn’t hike to the hut 4 miles down the trail, and I told him that that hut requires a reservation and there is a fee. He didn’t seem to believe me and kind of chided me for only hiking 8 miles. As he got up to leave he told me that he hiked 19 miles today and still had 3 more to go. Okay, day hiker dude. Do your thing and I’ll do mine.

There’s maybe a half inch out there now and the snow is suppose to taper off the evening. Hopefully. I’m tired of being cold, but I know that further down the line the trail will reward me with nice weather and easy miles.

April 8 Day 20 Country View Motel, Elkton, VA

What a day! Last night I slept in 2 hour bits; deep sleep for two hours, awake listening to the mice scurry around for a half hour; repeat until 5am. I was packed and ready to go by 6am. It was cold. Not just cold, but frigid. The low was 18 degrees but the wind made it much, much colder. I figured that by the time I got going I would warm up.

Two hours and 5 miles down the trail I was still shivering. I had a nice sizable ascent and thought that would do the trick. And it did! I followed coyote tracks up the hill and at the top I stopped to pee and drink water.

And then the wind really picked up. I was sweating and shivering. I picked up my pace and hoped for the best but I just couldn’t get warm again. The sun was out and melting the snow and the wind was blowing snow off the trees; it was lovely. I knew tonight was going to be another frigid night so I made the call to go get a motel. I knew I could not get warm enough to be comfortable, let alone safe, as I was.

The forecast is calling for some snow tomorrow morning with clearing in the afternoon. Temps will slowly get warmer over the next few days and by Friday highs will be in the 70s. I’ll play it by ear and see how things are in the morning.

I feel relieved that I am here in this toasty warm room. And grateful that I have the resources to get myself to a safe place.

I got to Swift Run Gap and some hikers gave me a ride to town. I wanted to get a few things at the 7-11 to munch on in the room. A woman walked up to me and asked if I was an AT hiker. I said I was and she offered to give me a ride wherever I needed to go. So she drove me a couple of miles back to towards the trail where this motel is. The kindness of strangers never ceases to awe me.

I finally feel like my brain is thawing out so I’ll post this with photos. I am so happy to have finally gotten my trail legs, grateful for strangers, in awe of unconditional kindness, pleased to see the weather finally starting to turn, and finally, grateful for all my loved ones for their support. I love you all.

March 31 Day 12 David Lesser Shelter

Benjamin, the man who owns and runs the Teahorse Hostel, came upstairs around 7:30 to make waffles for Serena, myself and one other individual, a traveler who is not a hiker. We sat around the table and drank coffee and ate waffles for about a half hour. The traveler was rather confounded with our hiking and seemed to have a difficult time understanding what the trail is and how it is hiked. We directed him to the Conservancy down the street and hopefully he went there today and found the answers he was looking for from us.

Check out time was 10am and I walked down to the post office to send my inferior inflatable mat to Keith along with a special AT souvenir. And a pair of socks and an extra shirt which I don’t think I’ll be needing any longer.

The shelter is about 8 or so miles south of town and a pleasant hike. Nice to have another easy-ish day. There is one other person here and he is very nice. It looks to be a chilly night, it’s windy but I’m very cozy in the shelter on Keith’s insulated Big Agnes inflatable sleeping pad.

My life is complete!

April 1 Day 13 Sam Moore Shelter

I got out of camp at 7am which made me very happy. I was following the ridge line south when I came across a herd of white tailed deer. I couldn’t believe how long their tails were! They were very large and fast. I glimpsed nearly a dozen of them as they headed down the ridge.

After about 7 miles I came to a spring where I filled my water bottles and prepared to enter The Rollercoaster. This is a 13.7 mile stretch of the AT that has many, many ups and downs. Trailboss and his crew of volunteers built this section of the trail some years ago as an alternative to a lengthy road walk. It is pretty spectacular. Gorgeous little hollows are at the bottom of most of the hills where springs and creeks are running very nicely this time of the year. This shelter is about half way through the Rollercoaster, and tomorrow I’ll get through the rest and climb a mountain at the end of it! Good hiking but exhausting. I am really looking forward to entering the Shenandoah National Park on Wednesday. This is a part of the country I have never seen.

I love it.

Right now I have that familiar feeling of being tired, sore and content. Again I met my goal, again I got to the place where I told myself I would get to. I could have stopped earlier.

Here I am.

Time to read a bit and fall asleep by 8pm.

Another amazing day on the Appalachian Trail.

April 2 Day 14 Whisky Hollow Shelter

It started raining in the middle of the night but I was cozy as can be in the shelter. I woke up only twice in the night, which means that last night was one of the better nights sleep I’ve gotten so far. Around 5am I got up to go use the privy. It was dark and so foggy that when I turned on my headlamp all I could see was mist. This is exactly why I always locate the privy the evening before so I can find it in the dark.

I got up there and when I opened the door a smallish black widow was the first thing I saw. It was to the left up in a corner. In the space of about a tenth if a second I calculated the likelihood of being attacked by the spider and could I dig a cat hole in the woods before I entered dire circumstances. I went for it. The whole time I sat in that privy I never took my eyes off that spider. Thank goodness for headlamps!

After my brush with death I decided to make breakfast and a trail mocha (hot coco with Starbucks Via packer). I packed up, left a Snickers bar for a still sleeping Serena and Loki (today is his birthday) and I was hiking before 7am. Getting closer to my target 6:30am time.

I got through the second half of the famed Rollercoaster and took a quick lunch about 7 miles into my 15 mile day. It was chilly and overcast all morning and I was happy to get moving again.

When I had five miles to go I ran into another Boy Scout troop. The adults that watch after those boys sure do have a lot of patience. I wished them happy hiking and began a nice gentle ascent up into Sky Lands (?) State Park. Very nice. I crossed paths with a NOBO named Overhill who started in Georgia in early February. Admirable.

I got here to this shelter and met two section hikers from Indiana who are very friendly. We chatted all things trail and now we are all resting, reading and journaling. I have the downstairs section of the shelter all to myself, which is nice.

Today was the first day I felt really strong and nimble on the trail. During the snow I felt so weighted down by layers and such; I know they were necessary but it’s so nice to be back to wearing my usual hiking garb.

At least for today!

April 3 Day 15 Mountain Cabbin Home

Tonight I’m staying in a very old “Cabbin” that used to be slaves’ quarters in the early 1800s. It is next to a larger house that is a bed and breakfast, owned by two thru hikers, Anything (Lisa) and Possible (Scott). I met Possible when I walked up around 2pm. I had called ahead of time to reserve a bunk, and so far I’m the only one here.

Possible let me choose some loaner clothes while I do my laundry and right now I’m wearing a sleeveless white t-shirt and black stirrup pants.

Stirrup pants.

Possible is out running a hiker, Caretaker, back to Harper’s Ferry. Caretaker gave me a ton of food from the resupply he won’t be needing since he is leaving the trail. I’m stoked! I have 95 percent of the food I’ll need for my next section.

Thanks Caretaker!

So I’m relaxing, and later Possible said he’d take me into Front Royal for anything I might need.

Tomorrow I’ll hike into Shenandoah National Park. So exciting! I feel like a real hiker again. Stirrup pants and all.

March 22 Day 3 Boiling Springs Backpacker campsite

I got up early after a deep, deep sleep and took full advantage of the continental breakfast at the motel. I then walked a few hundred feet down the highway to a truck stop. There I bought a great pair of mirrored sunglasses, and after the lovely hike in the sun today I’m so glad I did. I was breaking trail through anywhere between 8 and 12 inches of snow. There were times when people had gotten on the trail and hiked for a mile or so with snowshoes and that was nice. The snow is so powdery I don’t think snowshoes would be worth it. And the sun is melting the snow fairly quickly.

I got into Boiling Springs around 2pm after an 8 miles hike and I was beat. I stopped into the Appalachian Trail Conservancy office and chatted with the nice folks there while I got my AT passport stamped. There’s a hiker box there too, my first one this hike. Someone left a nearly full canister of fuel so I grabbed that. I’ve been using a lot of fuel lately due to the cold. Hot beverages are so great to have whenever I want one! And here in my tent it’s nice to have my hot water bottles.

I did a quick resupply for 3 days at the mini mart and then walked .2 miles out of town to the backpacker campsite. Nothing here! I did find a flat spot with not that much snow so I cleared it off and pitched my tent. I’m hoping I’ll be warmer in my tent than I was at the shelter a couple of nights ago. The problem is not my sleeping bag, it’s plenty warm. I lose heat through my inflatable sleeping pad. I love it, it’s very comfortable. I wanted to find a foam mat to put under it when I was in town but the outdoor store there didn’t have them. Oh well. I didn’t want to carry the weight anyway.

I’m going to hike 12 miles tomorrow so I’m hoping to get a good rest tonight. I’ll be glad to get out of this valley and the farmlands, back up into the mountains, such as they are.

March 23 Day 4 Tagg Run Shelter

It was a cold night but I was happy to see my shoes were not completely frozen solid. The backpackers campsite is 200 feet from trail tracks. I think seven trains passed in the night. I’ve noticed that snow makes everything take twice as long for me. Usually, my morning routine from wake up to pack on is about 35 minutes. Now it’s about 1.25 hours. Ugh.

Once I got going the sun was just coming up over the pastures and it was gorgeous. Breaking trail was tough due to the sunshine yesterday; no more powdery, easy to shuffle through snow.

I got into a good rhythm and powered up my first ascent of the day in about an hour and a half. Three miles. Down hill, then up. And down again to Alec Kennedy shelter where I had second breakfast. Nice to have a place to sit down for a spell too.

The rest of the day continued in the same way, up and down. Ascending through unbroken snow is exhausting. The lack of sleep kicked in and I decided it would be a good time to start working on my Bear Grylls impressions. At one point I stopped in the middle of the trail laughing so hard it hurt. Oh my.

I got to highway 34 and took a left where I found the Green Mountain Market just up the road. I was a bit short on snacks and so I picked up a few things. Happy to be nearing the end of this day I walked the last 1.3 miles to the Tagg Run Shelter. Whew.

After I had pitched my tent, gotten water from the nearby spring I cooked dinner. Finally relaxing. It felt so good to have, once again, accomplished the goal I set out with in the morning. Setting my intentions is important for me nowadays. It’s a way of holding myself accountable for my decisions.

I was almost finished with my dinner when a couple of backpackers showed up! Aside from the day hikers I saw the first day, these were the first people I have seen on the trail. Ryan and Colleen are section hikers from DC. We chatted and they gave me a chicken tender. I shared chocolate with them and Colleen made a fire. It didn’t last long, and I struggled to keep my eyes open. I retired to my tent and was asleep soon after.

March 24 Day 5 Tom’s Run Shelter

Is it really March 24? It feels like I’ve been out here for weeks.

Last night was probably around 20 degrees and I started to get cold around 4am. Awake by 6 am, I slowly began my morning routine.

I broke trail all morning and made very slow progress. At times the snow was knee deep. I spent some time grumbling to myself and then finally came out of my self imposed snow funk once the trail began to descend down to Pine Grove Furnace State Park. I talked to some nice people, washed my hankie and pee rag in the ladies bathroom and washed my hands in hot water. HEAVEN.

I walked over to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy office and got my passport stamped. Those folks sure are nice; the office wasn’t even open yet for the season and the man running things was in the middle of an orientation when I walked in the open screen door. I sheepishly held up my passport and he stopped his talk and showed the new volunteers how to stamp an AT passport. Cool! Thanks nice guy!

I went happily on my way with only 4 miles to hike to get to Tom’s Run Shelter. I got here to find Ryan and Colleen taking a break; they then left and headed on to the next shelter. I decided to be done for the day. An Outward Bound group showed up and I chatted with them for a bit. It’s so nice to have people around. Now it’s time to read for a bit and sleep soon after.

March 25 Day 6 Quarry Gap Shelter

I woke up to frozen shoes and blue skies. I’m guessing it was somewhere around 20 degrees. My morning routine was faster; I was up and hiking down the trail around 7:15. Icy trail. But broken trail, which was so nice. I had broken trail all day, and saw few people. A Boy Scout troop was camped at Birch Run Shelter and we chatted for a bit. They told me that the other half of their group was going to my destination, Quarry Gap. I was about 2 miles from the shelter when I caught up to them. Very nice folks.

Since there were two shelters at Quarry Gap, I had one to myself and the boys had the other. The adults pitched tents, and I was happy to be in a shelter. The scouts were very generous with salami, baby carrots, Oreos and Girl Scout cookies.

The girls made a fire and I chatted with Carol and Jim about hiking and trails; Carol told me all about her Kilimanjaro hike. I’d love to do that someday.

I fell asleep around 8pm to a quiet camp. A great day.

March 26 Day 7 Tumbling Run Shelter

I hiked 2 miles to the highway and walked a quarter of a mile down to the Timbers Cafe, a very hiker friendly place. I had a very inexpensive breakfast and coffee and chatted with another hiker about trail conditions. I was pleased to learn that the trail south was all broken and that I’d have no problem making the Tumbling Run shelters. Yes!

A the hostel down the street is run by an older hiker named Junker, and he told me that if I wanted a shower and a place to reorganize my resupply that I could go down there and do that. Another local offered to drive me to Dollar General to resupply.

Yes!

So many nice folks. I got back on trail around noon, clean and happy. I put away 10 miles in just a few hours and met Serena Williams and his dog Loki, they are hiking SOBO (southbound) and they are super nice.

Tonight is supposed to be the last cold night. This is good news.

Another amazing day on the Appalachian Trail.

March 27 Day 8 Raven Rock Shelter

I crushed 9 miles out of camp before noon this morning; the trail was mostly ice and snow free and the trail was meandering through hardwoods and sycamore trees. I got to Pen Mar just inside of Maryland and saw Serena Williams and Loki having lunch under one of the pavilions there. I joined them and we talked about how nice the hiking had been. The stop was short, as temps are still in the mid 30s. But, temps are supposed to rise through the rest of the day and night, on into tomorrow and then next few days. Rain is in the forecast. Will it melt the snow? There is still so much up here in the higher elevations (1,600 feet). All I know is that I really, really want the snow to go away. I feel like I have learned a lot this past week with the snow and cold temps. I’ve learned that everything takes longer, and that it is more challenging for me to make decisions and to keep track of my gear. I made the mistake of not picking up an extra fuel canister in Boiling Springs; I thought I would be able to get one in Fayetteville yesterday but none were to be had. I might have enough fuel to get to Harper’s Ferry but only for cooking dinner. No hot bevies. I have also learned that the cold makes me spacy; it is harder to focus and a couple of times I have gotten my mileage off. Which usually never happens.

And most importantly, while I do like hiking in cooler temps, I do not like hiking in snow and the cold. The kind of cold that wakes me up at 4 am shivering and I can’t make it stop. I can feel the shivers like waves through my body, and I realized that they do actually make me warmer.

And I didn’t need to know that.

So, these next few days will be, hopefully, the last of the snow and that is good. I am looking forward to getting to Harper’s Ferry and having a short day of hiking, getting a bunk and the hostel and getting Keith’s insulated inflatable sleeping pad, which will go a long way for keeping me warmer. Why didn’t I take it in the first place? Because I am stubborn.

But for now I am happy to be where I am. I am warm. I have food. There are two other hikers here, and it’a nice to have company.

Oh, and I have seen the last of the rocks of PA. There was an uphill section today of big rocks covered in snow. And it was raining. And I made it.

I did it.

Another brutal and beautiful day on the Appalachian Trail.

March 28 Day 9 Pine Knob Shelter

This morning I woke up warm. A first for this hike. I unzipped my bag and hustled out to the privy and when I got back Old and Slow was awake. He’s a NOBO section hiker who got in yesterday evening. We chatted a little bit and Serena woke up and took Loki out. I was ready to go soon after; my morning routine getting more and more efficient. Must be the warmer weather. And by warmer I mean in the mid 40s. I headed out to the trail and for the first five miles the trail went up and down. The ascents are tough because since I’m heading south the most snow is on the north facing side. The up side. Even though the trail was broken it was still difficult. I was pleased to make one final ascent before getting on a ridge line which I followed the rest of the day. Serena and Loki caught up with me mid day and once it started raining they went on ahead. When I got to the shelter, someone had pitched a tent inside the shelter (not the best trail etiquette), and Serena told me the shelter was leaking all along the back wall. So I pitched my tent, and I’m glad I did. I love my tent and oftentimes I like having my personal space.

It’s been a week since I’ve slept in a bed and I am looking forward to getting into Harper’s Ferry on Friday.

March 29 Day 10 Ed Garvey Shelter

The gentle rain that began in the evening lasted most of the night, however, when I got out of my tent at 6am much of it was dry. It was warm! And the few patches of snow that lingered around the shelter were gone. Sweet, sweet joy. I happily packed up my things and topped off my water bottles before heading out. Today will be my longest day yet, almost 17 miles to my destination. I wanted to push today to set myself up for a short day on Friday into town.

All day the hike was lovely. Long flat-ish stretches of trail with now snow. It’s safe to say now that the snow is gone. The trail goes right by the Washington Monument, the first one. It’s a very interesting stone building that was also used as a look out point during the Civil War. I was thinking, if I were in a car and I saw a sign directing me to this monument I probably would not stop. But since it’s right on the trail, I got to experience this little bit of history. I love that about the trail. Things like this are most accessible. Funny, because it would be easy to think that cars make things easier to reach. Which is true in some cases.

Serena and Loki caught up to me in the middle of the day and they went on ahead. I caught them just before Crampton Gap and we had a second lunch by the water pump (delicious well water) and hiked the three miles here to Ed Garvey Shelter. It’s a great shelter with a loft second level. There’s a staircase on the back of the shelter and a small balcony with a door leading to the sleeping loft, where I am now.

Happy to be here.

March 30 Day 11 Teahorse Hostel, Harper’s Ferry

Happy to be here. Got into town around 10:30 and had a nice breakfast at the local coffee shop and hit up the outfitter for some canister fuel (I had just enough gas to make it here, yay!) and some odds and ends. I checked into the hostel at 1pm, Serena and Loki are here too so we split a shuttle over to Walmart. Trailboss was out driver and he and his wife do lots of trail work in the area. Very nice older gentleman who obviously loves the trail. I’ve said it many times, and I’ll say it again, one of the things I love most about the trail is the people.

After eating half a frozen pizza, I’m lounging around waiting for laundry downstairs to finish. The hostel is a private residence, the downstairs being Benjamin’s (the owner) private quarters. The upstairs is the hostel; two large rooms with bunks each with a bathroom, a living room and full kitchen. Maps of the area cover the walls and it is all very clean. Benjamin asked us what time we would like him to come upstairs and cook waffles. Wow! We decided on 7:30am. There is also a small store downstairs where he sells all hiker foods and items like fuel and batteries.

So now I’ll update this, as it has been awhile. Tomorrow afternoon I’ll hike out of West Virginia into Virginia. Progress.

Cougar out until next time!