A Tent in the Whirl of the Universe

July 4th, 2026 Salida Zero Day

Today I am hiking zero miles, hence the phrase “zero day.” Although I do walk down the highway a bit in the morning to resupply at Walmart. My shoes are still wet; I washed them yesterday evening, and while they are cleaner, they are not by any means clean. That’s ok. Same with my clothes. While they are clean-ish, they are still not quite the kind of clean one might thing of in off trail life. My socks are still dirt stained. My sun hoodie still has sweat stains in the pits. But they are clean to me, and that’s enough.

The resupply options in Walmart are meager at best, but I get things I think I’ll eat. Street taco sized tortillas. Cheese and salami, which really is tough to get sick of (although I do manage it later in my hike). I could have tried to find a ride over to Natural Grocers, or Safeway, but those places are on the other side of town, and I don’t feel like expending the energy required to finding a ride there and back. Today is for maximum rest, so here I am. I get some candy, some oatmeal, chips, and noodles. I also get some things to eat other the course of the next 20 hours. I feel like I am fairly successful. I’m walking out of the store and I see Elizabeth, who is also taking a zero day and going in to resupply. I am not the only one who doesn’t want to spend a rest day going far to run errands.

I spend the day napping, eating, updating my Libby loans and getting my Kindle reads squared away for the next stretch. Watching movies. Taking another bath. It’s really great.

July 5th, 2026 CT mile 274.5

Connie and her dog Jackson pick me up at the front desk just before 7am, which is great because usually shuttle drivers don’t do early times like that. Not Connie. She likes to get out early so she can get a hike in. The smoke is pretty bad down in the valley, but as we climb up higher towards Monarch Pass it gets better. I decided to start at Monarch Pass, and not where I left off at the cutoff to the Butterfly House in the interest of time and miles. This stretch is going to be a long one (five and a half days) and I don’t want to add ten miles on to that. It’s a nice morning, with elevation gain, but it’s graded very nicely so I cruise. Technically, I’m still on the Collegiate West route for another five miles, then the east and west routes join back together. It’s ridge hiking, which is the best, and I happily hike along, listening to my audiobook.

Then I see the plumes of dust, and I hear dirt bikes. And I remember, right, people can ride dirt bikes on this section of trail. And it’s the Sunday after the Fourth of July. The bikers slow down as they see me step off the trail, but clouds of dust soon envelope me. There goes any kind of clean I thought I had.

Soon I am at the junction where the two routes join back up. Five miles already! Over the next ten miles I encounter more dirt bikers, and a few CDT hikers hiking NOBO (northbound). I fill up to capacity at a really nice pipe spring, and dry camp in some pines. A good day.

July 6th, 2026 CT mile 292.8 Razor Creek

I’m entering a stretch of trail where water will be scarce for the next 40 miles or so. I hike five miles this morning down to a creek which will be my last water until the end of the day. Which is fine. I meet another hiker and we debate on how much water we need to take. I tend to like to have a lot of water while I hike, especially when I think back to my first day on this trail. I don’t mess around with that.

I end up packing out two liters after drinking one liter at the creek. This is the way. I add in my electrolytes and start the climb up towards Sargent’s Mesa. This is known to be an exposed (not much shade) and difficult stretch. As I make my way up I see lots of cows! Cute baby cows! There is a super tiny trickle of a creek but the cows stand in it and it’s not doable. But I’ve got enough to make it to the next source.

In the distance I see a truck parked near the trail. What could this be?

Trail magic! I am stoked. I take off my pack and look in the cooler. There’s ice cold bottles of water. Nice! I sit in the dirt and drink it. It’s so cold it hurts; I take sips of my warm electrolyte water so I don’t get brain freeze. There’s a garbage bag for the empty bottle. People are so nice.

I get up on the mesa and it’s hot, and I’m tired. The trail is rocky, and everything is dusty. There are more dirt bikes. I keep going, because that’s what I do. On these types of days, I am really glad that I have a good audio book to listen to. It really makes all the difference; it pulls me out of my head. When I’m struggling, my thoughts can often go into a downward spiral, and that’s not good. The audio book prevents that.

I pass more CDT hikers, and it seems like everyone is struggling today. I finally begin the descent down to the creek, and at first it’s hard to see. It’s a tiny trickle, but more than enough to fill my water bottles. I find a nice flat spot away from the trail and set up. Some more hikers show up later, but by the time they do it’s almost dark and I am reading my Kindle book on my phone. I feel good, having met my goal in terms of miles. It was a tough day, but I did it. It feels amazing, actually.

July 7th, 2026, CT mile 315

I slept so well last night. I feel fantastic! I pack up early and am hiking before 6am. It’s beautiful out, and not smoky. I ridge hike through some really pretty pine forests and then down to a creek. There’s low flow in the creek but I manage to pick up a couple of liters with my cook pot as a scoop. I approach Highway 114 and see a nobo hiker. We stop and chat for a minute or so. He tells me there’s “like, not really any water for the next 30 miles.” I know this is not true but I don’t argue. It seems like some hikers don’t think small pools of water with a trickle of a flow counts as “water.” It is though. Amateurs.

Some clouds roll in as I get to a trailhead with a pit toilet. This is always nice, but I don’t have a use for it right now which kind of irks me for a moment. Or maybe it’s the dirt bikes. I keep going down a gravel road as it rains a little, which is awesome since it keeps the dust down. With my pack cover on, I don’t put on my rain jacket because it’s kind of nice to have the cooling rain on me. For now anyway.

I get to the creek that will be my water for the rest of the day and for the first half of tomorrow. I’m a little concerned since a jeep drove past me a little but before the source, and that means the water on the road will be muddy. It is. But, I see where the large puddle is fed by a tiny trickle of the remains of the creek, and I am able to scoop up five liters of clear, cold water from a source that other hikers said was not worth it. Patience rewards me. I’m sitting waiting for my Aqua Mira to treat my water, and I see a lone pronghorn on the side of the hill across from the road. Nice! My first (and only) pronghorn of the trail.

I’m only hiking a couple more miles so I don’t mind the water weight. I find a flat spot to the side of the gravel road/trail, and set up. It’s not ideal, but since I got almost 22 miles in today, I am pleased and ready to stop for the day. Sunset is pretty smoky, but beautiful. I should say that I am at lower elevations for a few days, a stretch known as the Cochetopa Hills. In another day and a half, I’ll begin climbing up into the San Juan mountains, where I’ll hike until I get to Durango. I’ve been looking forward to the San Juans for a long time, back when I was hiking the CDT in 2019. I can’t wait!

July 8th, 2026 CT mile 335 Cochetopa Creek

I woke up early and after a quick oatmeal breakfast, I was packing up. I’ve done this routine so many times over the years, it’s like clockwork. When I was in Salida I upgraded my caffeine pills from 100mg to 200mg. A really solid decision. Soon, I’m cruising down the road/trail, with about 8 or so miles until I reach Cochetopa Creek, my next water source. I’ll be following the creek for the rest of the day, and for the first part of tomorrow. The miles go by quickly, as the terrain is easy and soon I find myself looking down on the creek. I find a spot to rest, refill my water, and eat some snacks. I see beaver sign everywhere; aspen stumps and dams and lodges everywhere. I see large trout in the creek. It’s hot, and hard to find a shady spot but some willows prove to be tall enough to give me a little shade.

Happy to be hiking next to water, and to be past the section of the trail where water is scarce, I heft my pack (getting very light as my food supply dwindles) and start hiking. Again, the hiking today is pleasant, despite the temperature. I get to a spot where the trail crosses the creek, and I meet two hikers; a couple. They are getting water and eating snacks. I stop for a bit too; I’m making really good time today and I want to take my shoes and socks off and soak them in the creek. So refreshing! It’s also nice to wash the dust off my legs but then I remember I have to reapply sunscreen. Ugh. Next time I hike this trail I am wearing pants, that’s all there is to it. There will be a next time, I know this.

As I make my way further up the valley, I pass what looks like an off-grid dude ranch, but for fishing. I think to myself, I would love to live here. And I would. Really. A bit later I pass a guy who was fishing further up the creek, and I guess that he is staying at the dude fisher ranch. I don’t actually say it out loud, but I can tell. He’s not a backpacker fisher dude. Good for him.

Clouds roll in and it starts to rain, but not that much, just enough to be annoying. It’s the end of the day and I really want to find a flat spot that has creek access. I don’t find it. The trail gets rocky, and I see that the creek is now in a deep, rocky chasm that I cannot get to. Despair! Everything sucks! I pout to myself for about five minutes and then the rain stops, and to my left is a big flat spot next to a large boulder, and creek access beyond. Pouting works, apparently!

I set up my tent quickly as the rain looks like it’s not done. I get water, wash my legs and feet, and get settled. As I am starting dinner, the couple from earlier walks by. I invite them to join me, as there are plenty of spots for more tents. They opt to keep going, and I wonder how far they will have to hike before they find a spot. I silently wish them luck.

July 9th, 2026 CT mile 352 Snow Mesa Lake

Since I am typing this up using notes I made during my hike, I can say that this day was probably in the top 3 days of awesomeness, awe, and sheer hiking bliss I had on this trail. Of course I did not know this at the time.

I looked at the elevation profile on the Far Out app for today’s hike and was like, “wow.” An Owen Wilson “wow.” I was a lot. Especially if I went the distance to my second goal.

Anyway, it was sunny as I packed up and was hiking before 6am. I knew that I had several passes to hike over today, with the option to bag a 14er (mountain over 14,000 feet) so I wanted an early start. And today is the official day that I hike up into the San Juans, which is very exciting for me. Usually, when I look at the trail map for my day’s hike, I pick out two different areas where I might stop for the day. The first spot I had picked out was near a creek at the bottom of a pass. The second, a spot at Snow Mesa Lake on the other side of two passes. My priority was for tomorrow: I needed to get to Spring Creek Pass at the highway before 11:30 am so I could catch the free shuttle into Lake City. I had to be on that shuttle. So, how far do I hike today and where do I camp to ensure that that happens? It’s some math, for sure.

In the meantime, I was hiking through jaw dropping landscapes.

I decided not to climb the 14er, (San Luis Peak) since I was getting enough climbing on the trail, and I wanted to make sure I met at least one of my goals for today, to set me up for a easy day tomorrow morning to the shuttle. Which is fine. All day I was above tree line, cruising over passes, and stopping every so often to just stare at my surroundings. How lucky am I to have this life where I can do these things.

Around 2pm I came to my first goal, and I met some nice folks from the Colorado Trail Foundation, and chatted with them for a bit. People are so kind.

Fueled by sheer awe, I decided to push on to Snow Mesa Lake. I was not disappointed. Grand views of the geological wonders of the San Juans surrounded me, and wide open expanses of tundra ridge lines opened up at every reveal.

I got up on Snow Mesa and felt like I was in the Scottish Highlands. Not that I know what the Scottish Highlands are like but I’ve seen Outlander. I know. The trail descended down from a ridge onto the mesa, and there was the lake. The elevation at the lake is 12,300 feet, which I think is the highest I’ve camped so far. Maybe? Probably.

It’s cold though and I make my ramen and eat dinner in my tent. I’m so happy because I made my second goal, and pushed myself hard and loved it. A truly great day.

July 10th, 2026 CT mile 357 Lake City

I slept in until 6:15 this morning since I have only 5 flat and downhill miles to hike until Spring Creek Pass and the highway. Plenty of time to make the shuttle. My tent is covered in frost; it was cold last night but I was cozy in my tent. I took my time packing up and by 7am I was cruising down the trail. This little 3.5 mile stretch on top of the mesa is another iconic view; you see photos of this stretch in guide books. The trail plays out in a straight line, over dips in the mesa. I saw a herd of elk to my right up on a ridge. More to the left of the trail. They were far away.

A hiker passed me and I stopped to call my mom. Whenever I get a signal I try to call her. Just to share the moments.

I began my descent down off the mesa to the highway and the trailhead. I got there around 9:30; plenty of time to hang out, dry my tent, and use the pit toilet. I chatted with the hiker from earlier, and soon more hikers showed up; most of them I had seen the day before. Elizabeth and Brittany hiked up; it’s nice to see them. They’re staying at the hostel in town; I’ll try to get a bunk there once we get there.

Soon the shuttle arrives and there are too many hikers to fit. No worries, another shuttle should arrive shortly. Wow! These folks are organized! About a half hour later we get to the Trail Hiker’s Center in Lake City and we get the tour. Lots of resources for hikers. Outlets to charge electronics, hiker boxes of food and other items, half empty fuel canisters, a bathroom, and if you leave your dirty laundry, they’ll have it back by 9am the following morning. I was able to secure a bunk and the hostel, and they have laundry, so I can take care of that later. It’s nice to sit, drink water, and relax. Then a group of us head down to grab a burger. We all get pretty much the same thing: bacon avocado cheeseburger with fries. Hits the spot.

I make my way up to the hostel and check in. Get my laundry started. I walk over to the grocery store to get my resupply. It’s a small store but they have things that hikers like, and I am not disappointed. I see the bakery, and know that that is where I’ll go for breakfast.

I take a long shower, and, as I have done so many times on long hikes, marvel at the amount of dirt that comes off my body. With laundry done, I decide to still wear my loaner clothes from the Hiker Center to dinner. What I call my “man shorts.” I like them!

I walk back to the hostel after dinner with some other hikers, and realize I am exhausted. Town days are almost always busy. Lots of chores that need to be done.

I put my earplugs in as I go to bed, and end up sleeping pretty well.

July 11th, 2026 CT mile 366.8

I walk over to the bakery and get a pastry, a bagel breakfast sandwich, some coffee, and some other random treats to pack out. I sit on the deck of the hostel and eat. Drink coffee. Nice to have coffee and not a caffeine pill today. I make my way over to the Trail Hikers Center and sit with a couple of hikers, chatting and organizing my stuff. A black cat rolls up and of course I have to give her some pets.

Around 10:45 it’s time to load up and head back to the trail. I’m only planning on doing 9 or so miles from Spring Creek Pass (CT mile 357). I’m looking forward to this three day stretch of trail; I’ll be in the heart of the San Juans for some stunning scenery and I can’t wait.

I get to my water source about a half mile from the spot I plan on camping, so I camel up 5 liters to take for the rest of the day and the first 9 miles of hiking tomorrow. The water is clear and very cold; my favorite! Everyone’s favorite, really.

I set up my tent in a large flat area with small trees for windbreaks. It’s a good night of sleep.

July 12th, 2026 CT mile 380.7

Today was epic. Epic in that I was exhausted, and every incline was so much work. Also epic because the views, the views, the views. And I hit the high point on the trail! 13, 271 feet. I hiked in awe all morning; the smoke had cleared a bit and the “wow” factor was off the charts.

I was hoping to make it over one more pass, but around 3:30 I stopped at a creek for water and saw a perfect place to set up my tent. So that’s what I did.

I woke up around 1am to go pee. The sky was so clear, I could see so much of the Milky Way. I regret that I did not take any night photos on this trip. Next time. As I was gawking at the sky, I could see flashes of lightning in the far distance. Even though the sky was completely clear where I was, not too far away there was a thunder storm. So cool.

July 13th, 2026 CT mile 395.7

What a day. I keep saying that. What else can I say?

I woke up from a much needed, deep rest and was hiking before 6am. I made the rise at the pass above my campsite and saw another huge expanse of ridges and mountains that were hidden from me yesterday. A large herd of elk in a basin below me. I’m always on the lookout for moose because moose are just so cool. Like, how are moose even moose? I think about this as I watch the elk, thinking, “I bet they wish they were moose. I know I do.”

Yeah, things get a little weird out on the trail.

My goal for today is a little lake up on a mesa. Then, tomorrow, it’s a nine mile downhill to catch the train into Silverton. Yes, a train. An old fashioned steam train. It’s a tourist thing that goes from Durango to Silverton and back. Silverton is an old mining town turned tourist/old west town. Which suits me just fine. It’s also my last resupply on the trail. Wow.

I spend the day going up and down passes. Gawking at the scenery, stopping to watch elk and marmots, and eating my dwindling snack supply. I see more ptarmigan, they are right by the trail and blend into the landscape perfectly. Wildflowers are booing right now; ridges covered in yellow, pink, purple, and white blooms. At one point, as I head to the Stony Pass Road and Continental Divide, I fill my water bottle with headwaters of the Rio Grande. Pretty cool to look up the ridge and see where that river originates.

After the Rio Grande, I traverse a ridge of wildflowers and and am again standing in the middle of the trail staring at the scenery. What am I even, in this world where mountains and wildlife are so spectacular.

Then, as I approach the Divide, I’m hiking through Mordor and the clouds roll in. Huge rock formations dominate the sides of mountains, and the unnamed mountain to the south of Stony Road Pass seems to have blue in it. What?!!!!

I see a waterfall and also see that the trail does not go near it and I see no way to get to it off trail and this makes me sad for about an hour. Maybe a half hour. Or is it the clouds? Mordor? Tough to tell.

I feel like I’m hiking out of Mordor, which is good, and I climb another pass. This is probably a good time to share that at this point in the trail I’m averaging about 4,500 feet of gain a day. Maybe less, maybe more. Today is probably about that.

It’s at the point in the day where I’m looking forward to stopping. I hike down into a valley, and start my last incline of the day onto the mesa. I stop and put on my rain gear just as some locals with dogs run down the trail. They are really happy people and I realize that my grumpy mood has worn off and I am excited to get up onto the mesa. This is how it is, hiking long distance. Emotions are big and they come and go at will. Also, I am starting to feel really depleted, no matter how much I sleep or eat.

I get up on the mesa and come across a trail junction. In the far distance, on the other side of a gully, I see a tiny blue speck of a tent. Who is camping there? So far off trail? What are they doing? I snap a photo and wonder about it for awhile.

Another hiker with a dog catches up with me. I met him awhile back, and I see him and his cute dog from time to time. Today, they are planning on camping a couple of miles past me. It’s nice to hike for a bit and chat trail. Then, on the side of the trail is a ptarmigan with babies!! Sage, the dog, stops and is perfectly still. MG clips her leash on just as she tries to rush the birds. Fortunately. Personally, I would never backpack with a dog for this very reason; scaring wildlife. But, I’m not a dog owner, so I don’t spend a lot of time worrying about that kind of thing.

I see my lake and say goodbye to MG and Sage. It looks like it’s going to start raining so I set up my tent fast and get settled. Sure enough, just as I get my ramen ready, it starts raining. I hear a couple of hikers setting up near me. It’s nice to have other hikers nearby for the night. I start my last audio book, Lonesome Dove, and rest before calling it a night.

July 14th, 2026 CT mile 405 Silverton

I packed up early and was hiking across the mesa around 6am. Plenty of time to get to the train stop but also I was just excited to get going. And it paid off. I saw a couple of coyotes and a large herd of elk in the first five minutes. So cool!

Then, as I come up a rise, I see a bull moose with a female moose. They’re just right there! They trot away, and I stand and watch them until they disappear. This is one of the many reasons why I love to get an early start. So much wildlife! I get to a trail junction and feel a wave of sadness as the CDT diverges from the CT here. I’ve been following the Continental Divide Trail since Georgia Pass, and I’ll miss it. In a few minutes, I round a bend in the trail and one of the most iconic scenes of the CT is before me.

I knew this part of the trail was ahead of me, I just didn’t know where. So it was a real nice surprise to see it this morning. That white shape is a lake, not snow. And to the left of that is the canyon I will be hiking down. I start down some very steep switchbacks, so happy and excited about where I am and what I am doing. I stop every five minutes or so to take in the view yet again. I see some old mines once I get into the canyon, and the trail gets really rough, to the point where I am climbing over some boulders, but just for a little bit. I see where MG and Sage camped, and wave to them as they are packing up. I’ll probably run into them later.

Which I do, and it’s nice to hike through the valley and chat. Makes the miles go by quick. Then MG takes a break and I keep hiking, so I don’t see him again until Silverton. I do run into two section hikers (hikers who hike segments of the trail at a time), sisters Stephanie and Tara. I ask them if they are taking the train, and they don’t know about the train, so I explain to them. They are on board, and we hike together the last mile or so to the train stop. There are a few other campers waiting for the train. We love the train! I get a water and an ice cream sandwich.

The train takes us right into town and I say goodbye to my new friends and head to a restaurant for a burger. Which was over priced and overcooked but whatever. It’s not trail food. I learn where the laundromat is and get my laundry sorted, meeting an ultrarunner there who is crewing for some race. She gives me laundry detergent and some loaner clothes while I wash everything. People are so nice!

I’ve got most of my chores done and it’s only 2pm! I go the the Avon Hotel, where I have a bunk reserved, and sit and wait for the 3pm check in. It’s nice to sit and relax for a bit. Once I check it and shower (!!!!!) I head over to the hardware store and get some resupply stuff, and the grocery store is just across the street so I fill in the gaps with my food there. I decide to pack out an entire box of Oreos. Why not! There are no rules, and this is my last stretch. I’m celebrating.

It starts raining and thundering and such, so I go back to the hotel and get my stuff organized. Maybe I’ll have enough food? I think so. Question is, will I want to eat it? Hopefully! Food has been a challenge on this trail, probably because of the altitude.

But I do want pizza, so I head over the the brew pub and get it.

I go back to the hotel with leftovers to pack out for tomorrow. Next day pizza out on the trail is always a morale boost. I don’t really sleep very well because a guy in another bunk snores all night, but I do manage meager sleep, and am happy to pack up and get a ride out of town first thing.

July 15th, 2026 CT mile 425.7 Cascade Creek

I’ve been told that Cascade Creek is a good place to camp so that’s my goal for today. A trail angel drops me off at Molas Pass around 8:15 am, which is fine for a town morning. I see some fireweed, which is so small compared to the fireweed I am used to seeing in the Columbia River gorge. I cross paths with some local hikers; all women in their 60s-70s, who love to talk trail.

It’s a pretty quiet day as I make my way up a couple of passes. I listen to Lonesome Dove. I stop and stare at the geology. I find myself thinking, “I should move to Colorado.” I know I won’t, but in my mind I’m already thinking about how I can come back here next summer. Hike it again? Or do the sections I missed due to the fire? Yes.

I get to Cascade Creek and it is cascading. There are also lots of biting flies. I have not mentioned biting flies to date since they are really not worth mentioning, other than they are no fun. They are worse than mosquitoes in my opinion. And they have gotten worse. I find a good spot and pitch my tent just as a thunderstorm rolls in. A couple of hikers pitch their tents near me, I feel bad for them as they pitch in the rain; that is literally the worst thing. But there is nothing I can do to help.

It’s nice to fall asleep to the sound of the roaring creek.

July 16th, 2026 CT mile 442.7 super cool campsite

Today was another very memorable day on the CT. I was up and hiking at 5am because I woke up early and could not go back to sleep. At this point, with four more days of hiking left, I’m in an “anything goes” mindset. Do I want to eat Oreos for breakfast and take two caffeine pills? Yes! Should I try to get to the cool campsite mentioned in my Far Out app that has good views and is just generally super neat? Yes! Anything.

I stopped at the top of a pass to dry my tent in the sun. Whenever I have a wet tent, I take the first opportunity to dry it. It may take 25 minutes, but since I got an early start I’m not really concerned with time. What is time? Time to sit and listen to the elk bugle to each other. It’s a very unique sound, if you’ve heard it you know. I sit in the sun and my tent dries. I don’t know it at the time, but I will be very happy later in the day for a dry tent.

I hike around some tiny lakes and around boulder fields.

Around 1pm I start my ascent up to Blackhawk pass. Clouds roll in and there’s some thunder so I power hike up the pass. Will I make it over the pass before the rain comes? I certainly try. I get to the top and it starts to hail. Just lightly though. I start the descent and it starts pouring. Hiking in the rain is a mixed bag. I don’t like it, and I try to avoid it, but at the same time I tend to make really good miles hiking in the rain. Mostly because I don’t take breaks and I hike fast. It’s exhausting. But it just happens that way. I’m a little worried because I’m still above tree line and there is lightning. So I book it down the switchbacks. I make it to my water source for the rest of today and the first 10 miles of tomorrow. Which means I need to camel up and carry to capacity. I think there is a water cache at the trailhead in a couple of miles but I don’t know for sure. Best to assume there is no water at the cache. I’m tromping down the trail which is now a river. Thunder cracks right above me and it starts POURING. It’s cold rain, since I’m at about 11,800 feet elevation. If I stop, I’ll get cold. It’s raining too hard to pitch my tent. I’m about 2.5 miles from the cool camp site. I can make it!

I get to the trailhead and there is the water cache with plenty of water. And here I am carrying 4 liters. I stop and drink a liter in the rain. Just to get it in me. I know I’m sweating a lot under my rain gear and I need to drink more anyway. Then, it’s just a mile or less to go. The rain lightens up a bit, and the thunder is not cracking right over head anymore, so that’s good. Then, I see the spot where I need to leave the trail and hike over a berm. And there it is. A quintessential flat spot, protected by a tree, with a view of the mountains all around. The rain stops. I pitch my tent, singing with joy. Like, literally.

I get everything set up and I make my dinner on a tree stump. More Oreos. Perfect. And then I’m warm and dry in my tent. A good day.

July 17th, 2026 CT mile 461.7 Taylor Lake

Today was all about ridge walking. No water for awhile, but it’s cool, and I have enough. I see some other hikers that I saw yesterday, they had a similar experience with the rain that I did yesterday. I hope they had a cool campsite to end their day. I don’t know.

Today’s hiking is lots of little ups and downs, which is exhausting to me. I am so tired. Always so tired. It’s a struggle. But I know that today is really the last big mile, big elevation gain day. So I rally. Listen to Lonesome Dove. It’s actually really nice hiking with cruiser trail, so I know I should not complain. And I do what I’ve been doing this entire hike when things get tough. I remind myself that I’ll wish I was here in October or January or April when I am home. Perspective.

I get to another iconic spot on the trail; Indian Trail Ridge. It’s a series of four passes, all next to each other. Small, but they are at 12,000 feet where everything is difficult. I decide that it’s going to be fun. A switch flips, and there I am, barreling down the trail laughing and then the thunder cracks and it pours again.

I’m not too worried about the lightning because the passes are not on the highest points of the ridge, so I think I’m good? I’m listening to the part in Lonesome Dove where Gus and Call have to make a decision about what to do with Jake Spoon, and this part always gets me, because Newt is there and he looks up to Jake . . .

I make it to the last pass. I see Taylor Lake below me. I hike down the steep trail, and it’s very rocky. I’m glad I’m not hiking up this! I get to the lake and look around for a spot, and find one in the willows. It’s not very buggy, which is a bonus. I get set up, eat diner listening to Lonesome Dove, and then call it a night. After a few Oreos.

July 18th, 2026 CT mile 471.5

Mornings are the best times. No smoke (generally) and everything is fresh. Wildlife. Tonight will be my last night on trail. I don’t have far to hike today; I want to get to a place where the hike to the end of the trail tomorrow is generally easy and chill. No problem.

I hike over to Kennebec Trailhead, and the start of Segment 28, the last segment of the Colorado Trail. It’s a really nice traverse with nice views of Cumberland mountain and Snowstorm peak. I like to know the names of landforms around me when I can.

I take multiple breaks; much of today’s hiking is downhill. My pack is light because there’s not much food or water in it, which is fine. I get to Junction Creek around noon and take another break. There is one more incline on this trail, and it’s just after Junction Creek. I plan on dry camping tonight, which means camping with no water source nearby. There’s a spring up the trail in a couple of miles, so I’ll camel up there and fill to capacity for tonight and tomorrow.

I get to the spring and the biting flies are nuts, so I quickly do my business treating my water (maybe too quick) and get to hiking. I find a great campsite in a mile or so, and set up under some Ponderosa pines, aspens, and live oak. I can tell I am getting lower in elevation because there are oaks. Something I have not seen since the early days.

It’s only around 3pm but I am tired. Glad I stopped where I did, and I eat random food left in my pack, dividing out tomorrow’s snacks. Oreos. Ramen. Lonesome Dove.

The two hikers who shared my campsite at Cascade Creek roll up, and they pitch near me just as a thunderstorm rolls through, just like last time. We all laugh. It’s ok to pack out a wet tent tomorrow because tomorrow I can dry my tent in my motel room in Durango.

July 19th, 2026 CT mile 487 Durango

My tent was dry when I packed it up; since I’m at a lower elevation, I guess it dried faster. The trail’s parting gift to me. I get started super early because I love hiking in the dark. I really do. I get to a spot on the climb where there is a view over Junction Creek valley, and I turn off my headlamp. I stand there and listen for a few minutes. Watch the moon. The trees.

I’m still hiking down, down, down out of the mountains. To town. I’m sad about this, but also very glad and very ready to be finished with the trail. I am bone weary and tired, and I know I need to rest for a week or so before I can do . . . what it is I will do with the rest of my summer.

But right now I’m just hiking, listening to the last chapter of Lonesome Dove. I finish the book with about five miles left in my hike. It’s bittersweet, and I find myself wishing I could go back to the start of the trail and begin again.

But of course that’s not the goal.

I start to see more day hikers. Trail runners. Couples with dogs out for a day hike. Some people stop and ask me if I’m about to finish the trail. Yes, I am! They congratulate me and I nod, humbled by this trail. By the continuous gains, the vast expanses of wild. By the elk bugling as I hope to dry my tent. By the sudden storms with freezing rains. By the elevation profiles that seem mild but turn out to be as difficult as anything. By the kindness of strangers, always the kindness of people who want to help me just because I am out here, hiking. As I get closer to the trailhead, I start seeing families. People who are hikers, but they wear street clothes. Flip flops. I know I’m close when I start to see flip flops. The albatross of the trail. I can see land.

And there it is. The sign. The information sign about the Colorado Trail. About the area. I take a selfie and use the pit toilet. A day hiker is bundling his toddler into a truck. “Need a ride to town?” I happily load my pack into the back of the truck and hop in.

Town awaits.

June 22nd, 2026 CT Mile 8.6

I didn’t sleep last night. Not surprising; I rarely sleep, or sleep well, before I travel for an adventure. I’m always too excited. So excited in fact, that when my Lyft driver picked me up at 2:30am, I forgot my carry on (a plastic bag with my Smart water bottle and my med/hygiene kit) so I had to ask him to drive me back. Fortunately I had plenty of time for this detour. I had to check my backpack because of my trekking poles and tent stakes; I’ve heard horror stories of hikers who tried to take these items through TSA and had them taken. Tragedy.

I arrived in Denver around 8:30 am and had some time to get my pack organized after I retrieved it from baggage claim. I finally found the train, and took it downtown where I was able to walk over to REI and grab a fuel canister for my stove, and some last minute odds and ends. Feeling somewhat out of sorts, but excited, I walked back to the train station and got on the southbound-most train; the one that would take me closest to the trail.

Whew. Around 11am I was already more than ready for a nap, but still one last leg of my travel day to get me to the trail. Another Lyft. Vanessa picked me up at the train station and got me to Waterton Canyon just as clouds started to roll in. Beautiful. I got out of her car, and made my way to the pit toilet as a shower began. Stretching my pack cover over my pack, I started hiking! But first, I had to grab a quick selfie at the sign. Is it really a long hike with out a photo at the sign?

I had a 6.6 mile hike on a dirt road, which was at a gentle incline, so I made good time. I had about 1.5 liters of electrolyte water, which I felt was enough to get me to the place where hikers can get water before they leave the river. Well, I got to that place, and there was no good way to access the river. So I had to hike on. I had a 500 ft climb and decent to get to water, and my camp. It was a struggle. I took a break at the top of the climb, but still felt out of sorts. I knew it was from not getting water, and the elevation. “Just get to camp. Get water.” I got there, and quickly found a spot to pitch my tent. After getting camp sorted, I got water from the creek, treated it with my Aqua Mira, and waited for it to be ready to drink, about 20 minutes. I got out a packet of Tailwind recovery shake and got that ready. Finally, I was able to drink the shake, and felt better almost instantly. But still feeling weak and nauseous, I just sat on a rock was rested. Drank more water. Then I met Emily, and her dog Scoop, who camped near me. And then this guy rides up on a bike with a trailer and wants to camp near us. Fine, fine. It was good to talk to people and have a distraction. I made dinner, but didn’t eat much. But after resting in my tent for awhile, I felt much better, and ate the rest of my dinner before crashing hard in my tent, cozy and thinking, “how the heck am I going to hike this trail?”

June 23rd, 2026 CT mile 26.6

I slept fairly well and woke up ready to go. I decided that I would hike to the fire station, and camel up at the South Platt River for the waterless hike to the fire station. “There’s no way you can make it to the fire station. That’s like, really far man.” Jordan fancied himself a “Constitutionalist” and gave Emily and I pamphlets of his theories. I was not impressed. This is the guy with the illegal bike trailer. I didn’t really say anything back, and said goodbye as I picked up my trekking poles.

It was a beautiful morning, clear and cool, as I made my way up the first climb of the day. I came across a family having their breakfast on the side of the trail. I always like seeing families that backpack together, because that was something I wanted as a kid and never experienced. Hiking, yes, plenty of hiking. But backpacking is a step further. Having all you need in your pack.

I got down to the south fork of the Platt around 11am. After making a much needed visit to the pit toilet, I crossed the river and found a spot to have an early lunch. I stripped off my sun hoodie and dunked it in the river, put it on, and knew I’d do it again before I started my next climb.

After a good rest, snacks, water, and dunking my sun hoodie again, I set out to the fire station, some 11 or so miles ahead. I knew this section had a lot of exposure, so I was not disappointed when clouds rolled in and a nice breeze picked up behind me. Tailwind. I put on my first audio book of the trail, Robert Jordan’s “Eye of the World” which I have read several times before but not recently, so I was good to go. I did not see another person until around 4:30, when I met Greg, a bike packer. We were both heading to the fire station to get water. When I finally made the turn off trail to the fire station driveway, I was feeling elated, exhausted, and pleased. I made it!

The North Fork fire station allows hikers and bikers to fill up their water bottles at their station, from a facet outside. They have a bench and a couple of chairs set up. I also had phone service, so I called my mom really quick. Then I sat, drank half a liter, and chatted with Greg. He had rode all the way from Denver, and was looking for a place to camp. I told him about some spots about half a mile away, and we parted ways. I cameled up to capacity, since tomorrow morning I would not have water for the first 8 miles or so. So I needed water for drinking tonight, tomorrow, and water for my recovery shake, and for cooking. I packed out five liters (!!!) and waddled back down to the trail, and hiked until I found a nice flat spot for the night. Whew! What a day!

June 24th, 2026 CT mile 44.6

I slept really well and woke up feeling strong. The trail was nice all morning; Segment 3 of the CT is known to be a great segment for bikers. I saw Greg again, and he was off down the trail. I can’t imagine biking this trail. But then again, I can’t imagine biking, so there’s that.

Around lunch time I can to a water cache set up by some local trail angels. This kind of thing is much appreciated by hikers, and I sat and drank half a liter before taking a liter and a half to get me up the mountain to my camp for the night. It was a long, but beautiful hike up through aspen groves and along old logging roads. The trail was really rugged and steep in some spots: cue audio book. I like listening to audio books when hiking is tough and I just need to get through it. I can still hear what is around me; birds, the bells of bike packers, or other hikers. I saw tons of periwinkle columbine flowers, and some mariposa lilies.

I got to the creek I had planned to camp near, and pitched my tent in a less than ideal spot. But I was tired, and I felt it was good enough. Which it was. I got ice cold water from the creek, and ate dinner as I thought about the upcoming days. As I was relaxing in my tent reading, a thunderstorm rolled in, and it rained for a bit. It was kind of nice.

June 25th, 2026 CT mile 56.3

I did not sleep well mostly due to the thunderstorms and rain. I’m just not used to sleeping through that kind of thing in my tent yet. Maybe never. I felt really tired as I got up and did my morning routine. I got mad at my instant coffee, and took a caffeine pill instead. “This is the way,” I thought as I rolled up my wet tent and tucked Brandon Walsh into the side pocket of my pack.

That’s right! Brandon! He’s been in my pack most of the time but I did take him out when I rolled into camp last evening and he fortunately did NOT have to spend the night out in the rain. Thank goodness.

Anyway, I was grumpy and started up the trail and passed really good, empty tent sites just past the creek. I knew there were good sites up that way I just didn’t take the time to look because I was so tired. This kind of thing always happens! And the times when I do really look, I don’t find anything good.

It was a tough hike up past 10,000 feet, my first time at this elevation on this trail. I saw a snowshoe hare eating breakfast on the side of the trail; it was wet from the rain the night before and I could see the water dripping off its white back legs as it moved through the low shrubs. So cute!

I began a long descent down into a valley, and it was beautiful. My mood changed as I saw the north fork of Lost Creek; its really a gorgeous little valley and I saw a small herd of really large deer hanging out. So cool! Way cooler than deer in Oregon.

Then, I saw the sign. Trail magic! And a white tent! Of course I went, hoping that some trail magic would cure my grumpiness.

I walked over and was greeted by Dean, who asked me if I’d like a chocolate chip cookie heated up, and a hot dog. How many hot dogs? One would be good, I thought. My stomach was still adjusting to the altitude. I sat in a camp chair after laying my tent out to dry. Dean said, “yeah, it takes some getting used to. You camped up high last night so you should camp low tonight if you can.” I was planning on a short day today, just 12.5 miles to a creek at the end of Segment 4. Dean’s brother and a friend were there too; they were hiking NOBO and were hanging out for a bit. Dean had all kinds of hiker foods, and when I left I ended up taking a few small bags of chips, some Uncrustables (which I’ve never had but they are the best hiker food!!) and some cheese sticks.

In a much better mood, I hiked up a gradual incline before I dropped down to the creek. I got rained on a little bit.

It turned into a really nice afternoon and I found a great spot in a small aspen grove. It was only 2pm but I was looking forward to relaxing in my tent, reading and listening to my audiobook, eating (Uncrustables for the win) and listening to the aspen leaves in the wind, my new favorite sound.

There was a pretty intense thunderstorm in the night, but I barely heard it.

June 26th, 2026 Fairplay, CO

As I got started this morning it was so beautiful. I hiked along a ridgeline through aspen forests. Everything smelled new and rich. I felt really good due to a great night’s sleep. I had about 14 or so miles to hike to Kenosha Pass where I could get a ride into Fairplay, and get a room for the night and resupply.

I had a cell signal so I called one of the motels in Fairplay and reserved a room. Knowing that was set, I relaxed a bit and set out my tent to dry and had second breakfast. What a great morning! This is the first day I felt really strong, after pushing miles and not getting a good sleep that one night. Something like that really sets me back. I also started to be keenly aware of what I was putting into my body and how it affected my performance. Everything seemed heightened.

As I was approaching the pass I started to see lots of day hikers and trail runners; this is pretty common on long trails when a trailhead is near. I hiked the last two miles with a trailrunner who was also a long distance backpacker. We talked trail for a bit, which was really nice, and she gave me some advice for later segments of the trail. She was going the other direction, away from Fairplay, so I was not able to get a ride with her. Once I got to the pass though, I met a woman and her daughter who were packing up their van in the trailhead parking lot and they asked me if I needed a ride anywhere, and fortunately they were heading in the right direction. People are so kind.

When I got to Fairplay I stopped in at Otto’s for a chicken sandwich. What joy and satisfaction! I felt like a new hiker. Or an older hiker who really needed a big meal. After that, I checked into my motel, which had laundry, so all of my immediate needs were met. I walked a couple of blocks down to the grocery store for resupply. I only had to carry 2.5 days worth of food, so that’s good. Since the large lunch was still giving, I got some ice cream to put in the freezer for later. Did not disappoint. I arranged for a ride with a shuttle service for the next morning, and slept like the dead.

June 27th, 2026 CT mile 87.5 Swan River

Luther, my shuttle driver, dropped me off at Kenosha Pass around 8:15am. I usually prefer an earlier start time but it’s fine. It’s a gorgeous day and I start hiking through aspen forests and lots of columbine. I’m excited because today is my first big pass: Georgia Pass at 11,900 feet or something close to that. One of my favorite types of hiking is hiking above tree line. And here in Colorado folks refer to this type of landscape as “tundra,” which I don’t think it technically is but I like the sound of it so tundra it is. Just before I stopped at Franklin creek, the last water source before the climb up to the pass, I saw a moose and her young moose; not a baby but close. So cool! First moose of the trail. Very exciting. At the creek there are a few other hikers, we make small talk about the trail and the pass and then one by one, we head off to start the climb.

I know, I’m weird, but I like climbing. I like setting my pace, and channeling intentionality to move my feet. Lifting my knees. Engaging my core. Using my trekking poles to amplify my pace. It feels good and it brings me joy. I stopped about half way up where two other hikers were taking a break. We chat a bit, and again, one at a time we pack up our stuff, buckle our packs, and set off. It’s a type of mirco-routine, this taking of breaks, taking stuff out, and then packing up again and setting off. I don’t stay long as I am keen to get up out of the trees.

And then I round a bend in the trail and everything opens up and I can see the pass ahead and above me. Occasional markers show where the trail goes, and I can see a hiker like a speck up towards the pass, slowly moving upwards.

Soon, I am at that spot where I saw the hiker earlier, and I look back to see my progress. This is something I love to see, and I’ve been seeing it every day of my hike so far. Progress. Seeing a mountain that, hours earlier, I was on the other side of. It’s not something that I think people experience often in daily life outside of the trail. How often to we see tangible, visible proof of how far we have come?

When I get to the pass I take a pack-on break and send of a couple of texts, since I have a signal. Then I start the traverse down to the Swan River, which is a few miles. And suddenly, out of nowhere, I’m sharing trail with the CDT (Continental Divide Trail)! I knew this was coming but I had no idea it would happen today. I am so happy to see this sign! It’s been seven years since I hiked a few sections of the CDT and now I’ll share the next 319 miles with it. I get pretty emotional about this sign, and what it means to me. The adventures I’ve had on it. It feels good to be back on this trail, as well as the CT.

As I wind my way down, I pass a small pond, and soon, I see two moose moving through the forest. Two more moose! It’s a four moose day.

When I make it to the river, there are plenty of flat spots to choose from, and I make camp and go soak my feet in the river. It is ice cold. Feels wonderful. Tomorrow I’ll hike into Breckenridge, which I had debated whether or not to go to, but I decided that it would be fun, so yes, I’ll go. Plus I want to stay at the Bunk House Lodge hostel so it’s a done deal.

June 28th, 2026 CT mile 103 Bunk House Lodge

I didn’t get a very good night’s sleep, so the hike into town was rough and slow going. I’m at a lower elevation, so it’s hot and not much of a breeze. Despite all this, I get really stoked when I come to the 100 mile mark. Yay!

I don’t have a reservation for the Bunk House, which creates some anxiety, but I decide to just stop by and see if I can leave my pack there while I go do resupply.

I get to the main highway to Breckenridge and Frisco, and the hostel is just a mile walk down the bike path. Totally fine. I’m out of water, it’s hot, I’m tired, and I just want to get my hiker chores done so I can relax. I get to the Bunk House, and I find a place to sit down and call. Mitch, the owner, lives at the Bunk House, and so me just showing up at 2pm is not ideal for him, and I apologize. He is very gracious, and lets me in so I can drop my pack. I pay for a bunk, and he tells me how to catch the free bus into town so I can resupply. Super nice guy. I love the place too; it’s on the historical register, and it’s an old log cabin style lodge, which I love.

I head out and catch the bus right away, and go to City Market to get food. I buy stuff to eat right away, a salad and a sandwich for dinner, some dessert treats, and four days of food to get me to Twin Lakes. I’ve decided to forgo Leadville, which I feel is a solid plan for now.

I sit on the steps near the store and drink some water, eat a chicken wrap and some chocolate, and then head back to the hostel.

Mitch gives me a tour of the place, tells me about the history, and we chat for a bit. I’m so happy to be here! I put my stuff on my bunk, and explode my pack so I can make sure I get all of my dirty stuff to wash. Then I go downstairs and take a long shower. So nice.

There’s a mom and daughter hiker duo here and we chat about all things trail, and what is to come. Then, we get news that there’s a fire near the trail south of Tennessee Pass, and there are some trail closures. Trail closures always panic hikers, and for good reason. Now, a good 40 or so miles of trail are closed on my next stretch, so I have to figure out what to do.

As the afternoon progresses, smoke from other fires and the new fire blow in and it’s really smoky. Not good. I end up sleeping really well despite this, and the next morning Mitch has set out a huge breakfast buffet for his guests, which now include several other hikers.

June 29th, 2026 CW Mile 5.5

After Mitch’s lavish breakfast, I puttered around the hostel considering my options. It was pretty smoky outside. Do I hike the 39 miles between here and Tennessee Pass, find a ride to Twin Lakes from there, or do I decide to skip that segement and the closed segments, get a ride to Twin Lakes, and hike from there? I was chatting with two hikers (and playing with their dogs) and they were getting a ride to their car, which was near Twin Lakes. Did I want to try to get a ride with them?

I decided yes. Marty, Mitch’s employee and friend, was the driver. Since I know I’ll be back to hike the closed segments, it makes sense to me to skip the smoky segments; it’s easier to return to the trail in Breckenridge than Tennessee Pass. And hikers don’t turn down rides. They just don’t.

Marty dropped us off at the hiker’s car, and I made the short hike over to Twin Lakes General Store, where I had a resupply box waiting. I already had some food, but it was nice to get new electrolytes, AquaMira, some dehydrated meals, and fresh Ziploc bags. I organized my food, but then had to do it again because the hiker box (free stuff other hikers leave) had tons of dehydrated meals, and I grabbed a few more of those. There were about a dozen or so hikers hanging out in the picnic area next to the store, charging their external batteries, eating food, and talking trail. I met Guts, Drop Bear, and Bat Outta Hell. After drinking a liter of water and packing out a liter and a half, I hoisted my pack and grudgingly set out for the short cut over to the Collegiate West route of the CT.

And this is where I need to explain that on the CT at this point, hikers can take one of two routes; Collegiate West, or East. These routes reconnect to the CT in about 75 miles or so. I think the East route is a bit longer. I chose the West route because it is supposed to be more scenic with bigger mountains. It’s a part of the trail that hikers look forward to, and I was excited to set out. I road walked down to a jeep track, and took that south for a mile or so, crossing a creek that feeds into Twin Lakes. Then I rejoined the CT on the Collegiate West route, and instantly the trail climbed. With a pack heavy with fresh resupply, it was slow going, but finally I got to a place where there were tons of flat spots for tents, and a gushing, ice cold creek nearby.

And it wasn’t even smoky!

June 30th, 2026 CW mile 18.3 Lake Ann

For months, I had been studying the map of the trail and was hoping that the miles would work out for me to camp at Lake Ann. It’s a popular spot, and a good place to camp to hike over Lake Ann pass in the morning. I like hiking over passes in the morning, and in terms of lightning and thunderstorms, it’s safer too.

I got up and made my way up to Hope Pass, after getting a great night’s sleep. There were so many pikas, and I even saw a few ptarmigan, which was super cool! Hope Pass has what I call a classic reveal; you get up to the pass and a huge panorama of mountains is revealed to you. Amazing.

It was windy and cold at the pass, so I didn’t hang out long, but what a boost! Totally elated, I headed down the other side of the pass, and made my way through aspen forests. I stopped for lunch at a creek, and made my trail tacos: tuna, cheddar cheese, and avocado. Yes, I packed out an avocado. I try to do that whenever I can. The tacos were perfect, and I cleaned up, got water, and started the long climb up to Lake Ann.

Thunder clouds rolled in, which during a climb is a mixed blessing. It blocks the sun, which makes for cooler temps and gets me out of the direct sun, but hiking uphill in the rain kind of sucks. Kind of. I do hike faster in the rain, and I don’t stop for breaks, which can make for an exhausting day. But whatever. I came across several day hikers coming down from the lake, and I got to the junction to the lake around 4:30. I was so happy! And the lake is just over tree line, which of course is my favorite thing ever. I said hello to another hiker who had pitched his tent and was cooking dinner, and looked around for a spot. I saw some fat marmots hanging out on the rocks above the lake; first marmots of the trail! I love them so much.

I found a spot, and pitched my tent just before it started raining a little. Bat Outta Hell rolled up; she had hiked all the way from Twin Lakes. A big day for her. She pitched her tent near mine and we chatted a bit as we got set up. Then it started snowing a little bit! How cool is that??!! I’ll tell you, it’s much cooler when you have camp all set up and your water squared away. Way cooler.

July 1st, 2026 CW mile 33.3 Cottonwood Pass

I slept pretty well; it was pretty cold in the morning. Lake Ann is around 11,800 feet, so that’s pretty high. I think it’s my highest sleep to date. Yay!

I got rolling pretty quick and saw tons of pikas, marmots, and ptarmigan on the .8 up to Lake Ann Pass. Bat Outta Hell was right behind me, and we took photos of each other at the pass. It’s nice hiking with another person, and Bat is really nice and has had some interesting experiences in the woods. It’s always enlightening to talk trail with other hikers.

I saw so many cool wildflowers on the hike down; I’ve really gotten lucky with my timing in terms of blooms. Bat went on ahead of me and I kind of zoned out, on autopilot, hiking down the pass and loving every second of it. So many mountains, critters, and birds, just stunning. This is why hikers prefer this route, I thought.

I got to a creek where I had planned to refill my water and take a break, and Bat was there with Brittany and Elizabeth, two younger hikers (Bat is about my age) who are super friendly and keen to talk trail. I think the CT is their first long hike. Then they asked about Brandon and of course he had to pose for them as they took photos. Then, we packed up and began hiking towards the climb to Cottonwood Pass. I’m by far the slowest hiker, so I went last. It’s nice to hike with people sometimes.

The hike up to Cottonwood Pass is my favorite so far. My favorite today. Most of the upper valley is above tree line, and with big, billowly clouds, perfect temps, and good company, it was awesome. As in awe inspiring. There was not much at the pass itself; some hikers hitch from here into Buena Vista but that was not on my agenda. Brittany’s husband was meeting them with Thai food, and they asked us if we wanted anything, which was super nice. I have pack weight to eat, and I know tomorrow is going to be a tough day, so I wanted to set up my tent at the little lake near the pass, and relax. We saw Guts again, and he was pushing on a few more miles. What a day!

It always feels so good when I have camp set up, my water for the evening and the next morning treated and taken care of, and I can just relax in my tent and think about all that I have seen, and all that has happened. Sometimes it keeps me awake, but I usually can fall asleep fairly easily.

July 2nd, 2026 CW mile 48.9 North Fork Chalk River

A big day. For the first several hours, the hiking was along ridge lines that were above 11,800 feet. Up to 12,800, I think. Lots of passes. Five in total. I spent the morning traversing and then hiking up several passes. We saw moose down in a basin in a small lake; it’s nice to be up high and to be able to see wildlife from a distance like that. I felt good most of the day, but as we descended down to the river and the temperature rose, I was glad that we were only doing 15 or so miles today. Lots of climbing in a relatively short distance. A classic day in the Collegiate West. Lots of passes, lots of views, mostly above tree line. Even though we were down low for the night, it felt high in elevation. Sure enough, we slept around 11,100 feet.

July 3rd, 2026 Salida

There was ice covering my tent this morning, and ice in my water bottle. It got pretty cold last night, but I was warm and cozy in my tent. The tent I bought for this hike, mostly to replace my one person single wall tent, is a Big Agnes Tiger Wall 2 tent. It’s a two person, but in reality it’s more like a one and a half person tent. Which means it’s a palace for me. It’s nice to have plenty of room to put my meager amount of stuff. And I have two side doors, and two vestibules, which is great especially when I have wet rain clothing and a wet pack cover.

Anyway, I love this new tent. I’m still using the sleeping bag I bought almost ten years ago, and I have an extra wide sleeping pad with is worth every penny and ounce. One thing I have learned over the years is to never, ever, skimp on your sleep system. I use an inflatable pillow too, which I love as well.

Some gentle but demanding switchbacks led us up onto a plateau, where Bat saw a large herd of elk on the ridge to the west. A really nice way to start off the day. Hiking up and across the plateau was a treat; sunny skies, no smoke, lots of wildlife and wildflowers. Very enjoyable hiking.

We only had a few passes, and around mile 65 I had decided to take a dirt road down to a hostel called The Butterfly House. I was skeptical, but figured it’d try it out and if I didn’t like it I could get a ride down into Salida. I really didn’t have enough food to comfortably make it to Monarch Pass, about 10 miles past the cutoff point to the Butterfly House.

We hiked had lunch near a small lake, and hiked over the pass on the other side. After navigating the trail over a large boulder field, we decided to hike on a dirt road instead of more boulder fields. Which was a good idea, since soon we came across a cabin, and a sign pointing to a canopy near a creek that said “trail magic.” Ice cold sodas in a metal box in the creek, and a picnic table set. It was so nice to sit and have a soda. Both Bat and I were tired, and any chance to rest out of the sun was a welcome one. I usually don’t drink sodas, but on trail, when they are ice cold, hell yeah I’ll drink the heck out of a Sprite.

We continued hiking down the gravel road, and Bat caught a glimpse of a hiker over on the trail, navigating a huge boulder field. We kind of laughed because, boy, it would suck to be that guy! An then shortly after that I slipped and fell, scraping my knee and rolling over in a big dust cloud. That’s what I get for laughing at purists (a purist is a hiker who hikes every inch of a long trail).

I said goodbye to Bat Outta Hell as I realized that she had been following me down the road for too long; she had to hike back up a quarter of a mile or so to where the trail crossed the road. It was super fun hiking with her, and nice to have someone to camp with and chat with. Hopefully our paths will cross again!

I got to the highway and walked a short distance down to the Butterfly House, and when I got there, it was clear that it was not the type of place I wanted. Besides, there was no grocery store or restaurant nearby, so I would have to find a ride to go anywhere. And I knew I wanted to take a zero day (zero miles hiked) tomorrow, and I didn’t want to be at the hostel for two nights. I’m sure it’s a great spot for 20 somethings who don’t mind sleeping in a loft with a few guys, but that’s not my jam.

As I walked back to the highway, I saw a sprinter van on the other side of the road, and I ran across. I saw a guy and his dog, and just as I was about to ask them if they were heading into Salida, he asked me if I needed a ride. He told me he hiked the CT a few years back, and knew I was a hiker. Dowser (his trail name) gave me a ride to the motel in Salida most hikers stay at (or at least have left good reviews on the trail app I use, Far Out) and was able to secure a room for two nights. Pricey, but worth it. The bathroom had a huge bathtub, and the kind sized bed was comfy and clean. Much better than a stuffy loft with other hikers. After a shower I ordered a large pizza, turned on a movie, and relaxed. Whew!