hiking – A Tent in the Whirl of the Universe

Colorado Trail 2026 Part 1

August 7, 2026August 8, 2026 by Cicely

June 22nd, 2026 CT Mile 8.6

I didn’t sleep last night. Not surprising; I rarely sleep, or sleep well, before I travel for an adventure. I’m always too excited. So excited in fact, that when my Lyft driver picked me up at 2:30am, I forgot my carry on (a plastic bag with my Smart water bottle and my med/hygiene kit) so I had to ask him to drive me back. Fortunately I had plenty of time for this detour. I had to check my backpack because of my trekking poles and tent stakes; I’ve heard horror stories of hikers who tried to take these items through TSA and had them taken. Tragedy.

I arrived in Denver around 8:30 am and had some time to get my pack organized after I retrieved it from baggage claim. I finally found the train, and took it downtown where I was able to walk over to REI and grab a fuel canister for my stove, and some last minute odds and ends. Feeling somewhat out of sorts, but excited, I walked back to the train station and got on the southbound-most train; the one that would take me closest to the trail.

Whew. Around 11am I was already more than ready for a nap, but still one last leg of my travel day to get me to the trail. Another Lyft. Vanessa picked me up at the train station and got me to Waterton Canyon just as clouds started to roll in. Beautiful. I got out of her car, and made my way to the pit toilet as a shower began. Stretching my pack cover over my pack, I started hiking! But first, I had to grab a quick selfie at the sign. Is it really a long hike with out a photo at the sign?

I had a 6.6 mile hike on a dirt road, which was at a gentle incline, so I made good time. I had about 1.5 liters of electrolyte water, which I felt was enough to get me to the place where hikers can get water before they leave the river. Well, I got to that place, and there was no good way to access the river. So I had to hike on. I had a 500 ft climb and decent to get to water, and my camp. It was a struggle. I took a break at the top of the climb, but still felt out of sorts. I knew it was from not getting water, and the elevation. “Just get to camp. Get water.” I got there, and quickly found a spot to pitch my tent. After getting camp sorted, I got water from the creek, treated it with my Aqua Mira, and waited for it to be ready to drink, about 20 minutes. I got out a packet of Tailwind recovery shake and got that ready. Finally, I was able to drink the shake, and felt better almost instantly. But still feeling weak and nauseous, I just sat on a rock was rested. Drank more water. Then I met Emily, and her dog Scoop, who camped near me. And then this guy rides up on a bike with a trailer and wants to camp near us. Fine, fine. It was good to talk to people and have a distraction. I made dinner, but didn’t eat much. But after resting in my tent for awhile, I felt much better, and ate the rest of my dinner before crashing hard in my tent, cozy and thinking, “how the fuck am I going to hike this trail?”

June 23rd, 2026 CT mile 26.6

I slept fairly well and woke up ready to go. I decided that I would hike to the fire station, and camel up at the South Platt River for the waterless hike to the fire station. “There’s no way you can make it to the fire station. That’s like, really far man.” Jordan fancied himself a “Constitutionalist” and gave Emily and I pamphlets of his theories. I was not impressed. This is the guy with the illegal bike trailer. I didn’t really say anything back, and said goodbye as I picked up my trekking poles.

It was a beautiful morning, clear and cool, as I made my way up the first climb of the day. I came across a family having their breakfast on the side of the trail. I always like seeing families that backpack together, because that was something I wanted as a kid and never experienced. Hiking, yes, plenty of hiking. But backpacking is a step further. Having all you need in your pack.

I got down to the south fork of the Platt around 11am. After making a much needed visit to the pit toilet, I crossed the river and found a spot to have an early lunch. I stripped off my sun hoodie and dunked it in the river, put it on, and knew I’d do it again before I started my next climb.

After a good rest, snacks, water, and dunking my sun hoodie again, I set out to the fire station, some 11 or so miles ahead. I knew this section had a lot of exposure, so I was not disappointed when clouds rolled in and a nice breeze picked up behind me. Tailwind. I put on my first audio book of the trail, Robert Jordan’s “Eye of the World” which I have read several times before but not recently, so I was good to go. I did not see another person until around 4:30, when I met Greg, a bike packer. We were both heading to the fire station to get water. When I finally made the turn off trail to the fire station driveway, I was feeling elated, exhausted, and pleased. I made it!

The North Fork fire station allows hikers and bikers to fill up their water bottles at their station, from a facet outside. They have a bench and a couple of chairs set up. I also had phone service, so I called my mom really quick. Then I sat, drank half a liter, and chatted with Greg. He had rode all the way from Denver, and was looking for a place to camp. I told him about some spots about half a mile away, and we parted ways. I cameled up to capacity, since tomorrow morning I would not have water for the first 8 miles or so. So I needed water for drinking tonight, tomorrow, and water for my recovery shake, and for cooking. I packed out five liters (!!!) and waddled back down to the trail, and hiked until I found a nice flat spot for the night. Whew! What a day!

June 24th, 2026 CT mile 44.6

I slept really well and woke up feeling strong. The trail was nice all morning; Segment 3 of the CT is known to be a great segment for bikers. I saw Greg again, and he was off down the trail. I can’t imagine biking this trail. But then again, I can’t imagine biking, so there’s that.

Around lunch time I can to a water cache set up by some local trail angels. This kind of thing is much appreciated by hikers, and I sat and drank half a liter before taking a liter and a half to get me up the mountain to my camp for the night. It was a long, but beautiful hike up through aspen groves and along old logging roads. The trail was really rugged and steep in some spots: cue audio book. I like listening to audio books when hiking is tough and I just need to get through it. I can still hear what is around me; birds, the bells of bike packers, or other hikers. I saw tons of periwinkle columbine flowers, and some mariposa lilies.

I got to the creek I had planned to camp near, and pitched my tent in a less than ideal spot. But I was tired, and I felt it was good enough. Which it was. I got ice cold water from the creek, and ate dinner as I thought about the upcoming days. As I was relaxing in my tent reading, a thunderstorm rolled in, and it rained for a bit. It was kind of nice.

June 25th, 2026 CT mile 56.3

I did not sleep well mostly due to the thunderstorms and rain. I’m just not used to sleeping through that kind of thing in my tent yet. Maybe never. I felt really tired as I got up and did my morning routine. I got mad at my instant coffee, and took a caffeine pill instead. “This is the way,” I thought as I rolled up my wet tent and tucked Brandon Walsh into the side pocket of my pack.

That’s right! Brandon! He’s been in my pack most of the time but I did take him out when I rolled into camp last evening and he fortunately did NOT have to spend the night out in the rain. Thank goodness.

Anyway, I was grumpy and started up the trail and passed really good, empty tent sites just past the creek. I knew there were good sites up that way I just didn’t take the time to look because I was so tired. This kind of thing always happens! And the times when I do really look, I don’t find anything good.

It was a tough hike up past 10,000 feet, my first time at this elevation on this trail. I saw a snowshoe hare eating breakfast on the side of the trail; it was wet from the rain the night before and I could see the water dripping off its white back legs as it moved through the low shrubs. So cute!

I began a long descent down into a valley, and it was beautiful. My mood changed as I saw the north fork of Lost Creek; its really a gorgeous little valley and I saw a small herd of really large deer hanging out. So cool! Way cooler than deer in Oregon.

Then, I saw the sign. Trail magic! And a white tent! Of course I went, hoping that some trail magic would cure my grumpiness.

I walked over and was greeted by Dean, who asked me if I’d like a chocolate chip cookie heated up, and a hot dog. How many hot dogs? One would be good, I thought. My stomach was still adjusting to the altitude. I sat in a camp chair after laying my tent out to dry. Dean said, “yeah, it takes some getting used to. You camped up high last night so you should camp low tonight if you can.” I was planning on a short day today, just 12.5 miles to a creek at the end of Segment 4. Dean’s brother and a friend were there too; they were hiking NOBO and were hanging out for a bit. Dean had all kinds of hiker foods, and when I left I ended up taking a few small bags of chips, some Uncrustables (which I’ve never had but they are the best hiker food!!) and some cheese sticks.

In a much better mood, I hiked up a gradual incline before I dropped down to the creek. I got rained on a little bit.

It turned into a really nice afternoon and I found a great spot in a small aspen grove. It was only 2pm but I was looking forward to relaxing in my tent, reading and listening to my audiobook, eating (Uncrustables for the win) and listening to the aspen leaves in the wind, my new favorite sound.

There was a pretty intense thunderstorm in the night, but I barely heard it.

June 26th, 2026 Fairplay, CO

As I got started this morning it was so beautiful. I hiked along a ridgeline through aspen forests. Everything smelled new and rich. I felt really good due to a great night’s sleep. I had about 14 or so miles to hike to Kenosha Pass where I could get a ride into Fairplay, and get a room for the night and resupply.

I had a cell signal so I called one of the motels in Fairplay and reserved a room. Knowing that was set, I relaxed a bit and set out my tent to dry and had second breakfast. What a great morning! This is the first day I felt really strong, after pushing miles and not getting a good sleep that one night. Something like that really sets me back. I also started to be keenly aware of what I was putting into my body and how it affected my performance. Everything seemed heightened.

As I was approaching the pass I started to see lots of day hikers and trail runners; this is pretty common on long trails when a trailhead is near. I hiked the last two miles with a trailrunner who was also a long distance backpacker. We talked trail for a bit, which was really nice, and she gave me some advice for later segments of the trail. She was going the other direction, away from Fairplay, so I was not able to get a ride with her. Once I got to the pass though, I met a woman and her daughter who were packing up their van in the trailhead parking lot and they asked me if I needed a ride anywhere, and fortunately they were heading in the right direction. People are so kind.

When I got to Fairplay I stopped in at Otto’s for a chicken sandwich. What joy and satisfaction! I felt like a new hiker. Or an older hiker who really needed a big meal. After that, I checked into my motel, which had laundry, so all of my immediate needs were met. I walked a couple of blocks down to the grocery store for resupply. I only had to carry 2.5 days worth of food, so that’s good. Since the large lunch was still giving, I got some ice cream to put in the freezer for later. Did not disappoint. I arranged for a ride with a shuttle service for the next morning, and slept like the dead.

June 27th, 2026 CT mile 87.5 Swan River

Luther, my shuttle driver, dropped me off at Kenosha Pass around 8:15am. I usually prefer an earlier start time but it’s fine. It’s a gorgeous day and I start hiking through aspen forests and lots of columbine. I’m excited because today is my first big pass: Georgia Pass at 11,900 feet or something close to that. One of my favorite types of hiking is hiking above tree line. And here in Colorado folks refer to this type of landscape as “tundra,” which I don’t think it technically is but I like the sound of it so tundra it is. Just before I stopped at Franklin creek, the last water source before the climb up to the pass, I saw a moose and her young moose; not a baby but close. So cool! First moose of the trail. Very exciting. At the creek there are a few other hikers, we make small talk about the trail and the pass and then one by one, we head off to start the climb.

I know, I’m weird, but I like climbing. I like setting my pace, and channeling intentionality to move my feet. Lifting my knees. Engaging my core. Using my trekking poles to amplify my pace. It feels good and it brings me joy. I stopped about half way up where two other hikers were taking a break. We chat a bit, and again, one at a time we pack up our stuff, buckle our packs, and set off. It’s a type of mirco-routine, this taking of breaks, taking stuff out, and then packing up again and setting off. I don’t stay long as I am keen to get up out of the trees.

And then I round a bend in the trail and everything opens up and I can see the pass ahead and above me. Occasional markers show where the trail goes, and I can see a hiker like a speck up towards the pass, slowly moving upwards.

Soon, I am at that spot where I saw the hiker earlier, and I look back to see my progress. This is something I love to see, and I’ve been seeing it every day of my hike so far. Progress. Seeing a mountain that, hours earlier, I was on the other side of. It’s not something that I think people experience often in daily life outside of the trail. How often to we see tangible, visible proof of how far we have come?

When I get to the pass I take a pack-on break and send of a couple of texts, since I have a signal. Then I start the traverse down to the Swan River, which is a few miles. And suddenly, out of nowhere, I’m sharing trail with the CDT (Continental Divide Trail)! I knew this was coming but I had no idea it would happen today. I am so happy to see this sign! It’s been seven years since I hiked a few sections of the CDT and now I’ll share the next 319 miles with it. I get pretty emotional about this sign, and what it means to me. The adventures I’ve had on it. It feels good to be back on this trail, as well as the CT.

As I wind my way down, I pass a small pond, and soon, I see two moose moving through the forest. Two more moose! It’s a four moose day.

When I make it to the river, there are plenty of flat spots to choose from, and I make camp and go soak my feet in the river. It is ice cold. Feels wonderful. Tomorrow I’ll hike into Breckenridge, which I had debated whether or not to go to, but I decided that it would be fun, so yes, I’ll go. Plus I want to stay at the Bunk House Lodge hostel so it’s a done deal.

June 28th, 2026 CT mile 103 Bunk House Lodge

I didn’t get a very good night’s sleep, so the hike into town was rough and slow going. I’m at a lower elevation, so it’s hot and not much of a breeze. Despite all this, I get really stoked when I come to the 100 mile mark. Yay!

I don’t have a reservation for the Bunk House, which creates some anxiety, but I decide to just stop by and see if I can leave my pack there while I go do resupply.

I get to the main highway to Breckenridge and Frisco, and the hostel is just a mile walk down the bike path. Totally fine. I’m out of water, it’s hot, I’m tired, and I just want to get my hiker chores done so I can relax. I get to the Bunk House, and I find a place to sit down and call. Mitch, the owner, lives at the Bunk House, and so me just showing up at 2pm is not ideal for him, and I apologize. He is very gracious, and lets me in so I can drop my pack. I pay for a bunk, and he tells me how to catch the free bus into town so I can resupply. Super nice guy. I love the place too; it’s on the historical register, and it’s an old log cabin style lodge, which I love.

I head out and catch the bus right away, and go to City Market to get food. I buy stuff to eat right away, a salad and a sandwich for dinner, some dessert treats, and four days of food to get me to Twin Lakes. I’ve decided to forgo Leadville, which I feel is a solid plan for now.

I sit on the steps near the store and drink some water, eat a chicken wrap and some chocolate, and then head back to the hostel.

Mitch gives me a tour of the place, tells me about the history, and we chat for a bit. I’m so happy to be here! I put my stuff on my bunk, and explode my pack so I can make sure I get all of my dirty stuff to wash. Then I go downstairs and take a long shower. So nice.

There’s a mom and daughter hiker duo here and we chat about all things trail, and what is to come. Then, we get news that there’s a fire near the trail south of Tennessee Pass, and there are some trail closures. Trail closures always panic hikers, and for good reason. Now, a good 40 or so miles of trail are closed on my next stretch, so I have to figure out what to do.

As the afternoon progresses, smoke from other fires and the new fire blow in and it’s really smoky. Not good. I end up sleeping really well despite this, and the next morning Mitch has set out a huge breakfast buffet for his guests, which now include several other hikers.

June 29th, 2026 CW Mile 5.5

After Mitch’s lavish breakfast, I puttered around the hostel considering my options. It was pretty smoky outside. Do I hike the 39 miles between here and Tennessee Pass, find a ride to Twin Lakes from there, or do I decide to skip that segement and the closed segments, get a ride to Twin Lakes, and hike from there? I was chatting with two hikers (and playing with their dogs) and they were getting a ride to their car, which was near Twin Lakes. Did I want to try to get a ride with them?

I decided yes. Marty, Mitch’s employee and friend, was the driver. Since I know I’ll be back to hike the closed segments, it makes sense to me to skip the smoky segments; it’s easier to return to the trail in Breckenridge than Tennessee Pass. And hikers don’t turn down rides. They just don’t.

Marty dropped us off at the hiker’s car, and I made the short hike over to Twin Lakes General Store, where I had a resupply box waiting. I already had some food, but it was nice to get new electrolytes, AquaMira, some dehydrated meals, and fresh Ziploc bags. I organized my food, but then had to do it again because the hiker box (free stuff other hikers leave) had tons of dehydrated meals, and I grabbed a few more of those. There were about a dozen or so hikers hanging out in the picnic area next to the store, charging their external batteries, eating food, and talking trail. I met Guts, Drop Bear, and Bat Outta Hell. After drinking a liter of water and packing out a liter and a half, I hoisted my pack and grudgingly set out for the short cut over to the Collegiate West route of the CT.

And this is where I need to explain that on the CT at this point, hikers can take one of two routes; Collegiate West, or East. These routes reconnect to the CT in about 75 miles or so. I think the East route is a bit longer. I chose the West route because it is supposed to be more scenic with bigger mountains. It’s a part of the trail that hikers look forward to, and I was excited to set out. I road walked down to a jeep track, and took that south for a mile or so, crossing a creek that feeds into Twin Lakes. Then I rejoined the CT on the Collegiate West route, and instantly the trail climbed. With a pack heavy with fresh resupply, it was slow going, but finally I got to a place where there were tons of flat spots for tents, and a gushing, ice cold creek nearby.

And it wasn’t even smoky!

June 30th, 2026 CW mile 18.3 Lake Ann

For months, I had been studying the map of the trail and was hoping that the miles would work out for me to camp at Lake Ann. It’s a popular spot, and a good place to camp to hike over Lake Ann pass in the morning. I like hiking over passes in the morning, and in terms of lightning and thunderstorms, it’s safer too.

I got up and made my way up to Hope Pass, after getting a great night’s sleep. There were so many pikas, and I even saw a few ptarmigan, which was super cool! Hope Pass has what I call a classic reveal; you get up to the pass and a huge panorama of mountains is revealed to you. Amazing.

It was windy and cold at the pass, so I didn’t hang out long, but what a boost! Totally elated, I headed down the other side of the pass, and made my way through aspen forests. I stopped for lunch at a creek, and made my trail tacos: tuna, cheddar cheese, and avocado. Yes, I packed out an avocado. I try to do that whenever I can. The tacos were perfect, and I cleaned up, got water, and started the long climb up to Lake Ann.

Thunder clouds rolled in, which during a climb is a mixed blessing. It blocks the sun, which makes for cooler temps and gets me out of the direct sun, but hiking uphill in the rain kind of sucks. Kind of. I do hike faster in the rain, and I don’t stop for breaks, which can make for an exhausting day. But whatever. I came across several day hikers coming down from the lake, and I got to the junction to the lake around 4:30. I was so happy! And the lake is just over tree line, which of course is my favorite thing ever. I said hello to another hiker who had pitched his tent and was cooking dinner, and looked around for a spot. I saw some fat marmots hanging out on the rocks above the lake; first marmots of the trail! I love them so much.

I found a spot, and pitched my tent just before it started raining a little. Bat Outta Hell rolled up; she had hiked all the way from Twin Lakes. A big day for her. She pitched her tent near mine and we chatted a bit as we got set up. Then it started snowing a little bit! How cool is that??!! I’ll tell you, it’s much cooler when you have camp all set up and your water squared away. Way cooler.

July 1st, 2026 CW mile 33.3 Cottonwood Pass

I slept pretty well; it was pretty cold in the morning. Lake Ann is around 11,800 feet, so that’s pretty high. I think it’s my highest sleep to date. Yay!

I got rolling pretty quick and saw tons of pikas, marmots, and ptarmigan on the .8 up to Lake Ann Pass. Bat Outta Hell was right behind me, and we took photos of each other at the pass. It’s nice hiking with another person, and Bat is really nice and has had some interesting experiences in the woods. It’s always enlightening to talk trail with other hikers.

I saw so many cool wildflowers on the hike down; I’ve really gotten lucky with my timing in terms of blooms. Bat went on ahead of me and I kind of zoned out, on autopilot, hiking down the pass and loving every second of it. So many mountains, critters, and birds, just stunning. This is why hikers prefer this route, I thought.

I got to a creek where I had planned to refill my water and take a break, and Bat was there with Brittany and Elizabeth, two younger hikers (Bat is about my age) who are super friendly and keen to talk trail. I think the CT is their first long hike. Then they asked about Brandon and of course he had to pose for them as they took photos. Then, we packed up and began hiking towards the climb to Cottonwood Pass. I’m by far the slowest hiker, so I went last. It’s nice to hike with people sometimes.

The hike up to Cottonwood Pass is my favorite so far. My favorite today. Most of the upper valley is above tree line, and with big, billowly clouds, perfect temps, and good company, it was awesome. As in awe inspiring. There was not much at the pass itself; some hikers hitch from here into Buena Vista but that was not on my agenda. Brittany’s husband was meeting them with Thai food, and they asked us if we wanted anything, which was super nice. I have pack weight to eat, and I know tomorrow is going to be a tough day, so I wanted to set up my tent at the little lake near the pass, and relax. We saw Guts again, and he was pushing on a few more miles. What a day!

It always feels so good when I have camp set up, my water for the evening and the next morning treated and taken care of, and I can just relax in my tent and think about all that I have seen, and all that has happened. Sometimes it keeps me awake, but I usually can fall asleep fairly easily.

July 2nd, 2026 CW mile 48.9 North Fork Chalk River

A big day. For the first several hours, the hiking was along ridge lines that were above 11,800 feet. Up to 12,800, I think. Lots of passes. Five in total. I spent the morning traversing and then hiking up several passes. We saw moose down in a basin in a small lake; it’s nice to be up high and to be able to see wildlife from a distance like that. I felt good most of the day, but as we descended down to the river and the temperature rose, I was glad that we were only doing 15 or so miles today. Lots of climbing in a relatively short distance. A classic day in the Collegiate West. Lots of passes, lots of views, mostly above tree line. Even though we were down low for the night, it felt high in elevation. Sure enough, we slept around 11,100 feet.

July 3rd, 2026 Salida

There was ice covering my tent this morning, and ice in my water bottle. It got pretty cold last night, but I was warm and cozy in my tent. The tent I bought for this hike, mostly to replace my one person single wall tent, is a Big Agnes Tiger Wall 2 tent. It’s a two person, but in reality it’s more like a one and a half person tent. Which means it’s a palace for me. It’s nice to have plenty of room to put my meager amount of stuff. And I have two side doors, and two vestibules, which is great especially when I have wet rain clothing and a wet pack cover.

Anyway, I love this new tent. I’m still using the sleeping bag I bought almost ten years ago, and I have an extra wide sleeping pad with is worth every penny and ounce. One thing I have learned over the years is to never, ever, skimp on your sleep system. I use an inflatable pillow too, which I love as well.

Some gentle but demanding switchbacks led us up onto a plateau, where Bat saw a large herd of elk on the ridge to the west. A really nice way to start off the day. Hiking up and across the plateau was a treat; sunny skies, no smoke, lots of wildlife and wildflowers. Very enjoyable hiking.

We only had a few passes, and around mile 65 I had decided to take a dirt road down to a hostel called The Butterfly House. I was skeptical, but figured it’d try it out and if I didn’t like it I could get a ride down into Salida. I really didn’t have enough food to comfortably make it to Monarch Pass, about 10 miles past the cutoff point to the Butterfly House.

We hiked had lunch near a small lake, and hiked over the pass on the other side. After navigating the trail over a large boulder field, we decided to hike on a dirt road instead of more boulder fields. Which was a good idea, since soon we came across a cabin, and a sign pointing to a canopy near a creek that said “trail magic.” Ice cold sodas in a metal box in the creek, and a picnic table set. It was so nice to sit and have a soda. Both Bat and I were tired, and any chance to rest out of the sun was a welcome one. I usually don’t drink sodas, but on trail, when they are ice cold, hell yeah I’ll drink the heck out of a Sprite.

We continued hiking down the gravel road, and Bat caught a glimpse of a hiker over on the trail, navigating a huge boulder field. We kind of laughed because, boy, it would suck to be that guy! An then shortly after that I slipped and fell, scraping my knee and rolling over in a big dust cloud. That’s what I get for laughing at purists (a purist is a hiker who hikes every inch of a long trail).

I said goodbye to Bat Outta Hell as I realized that she had been following me down the road for too long; she had to hike back up a quarter of a mile or so to where the trail crossed the road. It was super fun hiking with her, and nice to have someone to camp with and chat with. Hopefully our paths will cross again!

I got to the highway and walked a short distance down to the Butterfly House, and when I got there, it was clear that it was not the type of place I wanted. Besides, there was no grocery store or restaurant nearby, so I would have to find a ride to go anywhere. And I knew I wanted to take a zero day (zero miles hiked) tomorrow, and I didn’t want to be at the hostel for two nights. I’m sure it’s a great spot for 20 somethings who don’t mind sleeping in a loft with a few guys, but that’s not my jam.

As I walked back to the highway, I saw a sprinter van on the other side of the road, and I ran across. I saw a guy and his dog, and just as I was about to ask them if they were heading into Salida, he asked me if I needed a ride. He told me he hiked the CT a few years back, and knew I was a hiker. Dowser (his trail name) gave me a ride to the motel in Salida most hikers stay at (or at least have left good reviews on the trail app I use, Far Out) and was able to secure a room for two nights. Pricey, but worth it. The bathroom had a huge bathtub, and the kind sized bed was comfy and clean. Much better than a stuffy loft with other hikers. After a shower I ordered a large pizza, turned on a movie, and relaxed. Whew!

Tanzania December 16-29th 2023

January 1, 2024August 7, 2026 by Cicely

December 16

When I stepped off the plane at Kilimanjaro International Airport I was immediately overwhelmed with the warmth and the smells of the night. It was 9pm and I felt like I had been in the air forever. Exhausted, I knew I would not get to my hotel for a bit, so I relaxed my shoulders and unfolded my lungs into the thick air as I walked into the terminal to go through customs. Once I retrieved my bag I was happy to see someone from Embark Exploration standing outside holding a sign with my name. Such a relief! Someone to take me away so I can sleep! We loaded up the van and drove to Moshi, which is about a 50 minute drive. So many smells. It was a clear night but I could not see the mountain. My driver, whose name I have forgotten, explained to me where it was, and said some other things but I was lost in tiredness and the wind through the window.

Northern Lights over Hudson Bay on the way to Amsterdam.

December 17

I woke up before 7am still not rested but very content in my basic little hotel room. I took another cold shower and went down for breakfast and coffee. I had some time before 10am when I was to go into the lobby and meet with the Embark guides. I watched some birds, went back to my room and organized my stuff, and went to the meeting. I met the other two people in my group, Meagan and Francisco, from Memphis. I was relieved, as they were very nice and I could tell that they would make good companions on this adventure. Then Leo and Fredrick (the other Freddie) came in and introduced themselves. To make this clear, Freddie, who is Leo’s younger brother, is the head of the Tanzanian Embark Explorations Co. Fredrick, is our lead guide on the mountain. Fredrick and Leo talked to us about what to expect for tomorrow and gave us a little packet with an Embark Buff (yay, more gear!) and a detailed itinerary. Once we went over everything, and asked some questions, Leo and Fredrick went with us up to our rooms for a gear check. This is important because guides need to know that their clients have the right gear for various situations on the mountain. Fortunately, I had everything necessary. Fredrick particularly approved of my down pants.

After the gear check, Fredrick took us out on a walk around Moshi, which was fascinating and definitely a sensory overload for me. I kept thinking, tonight I’ll get caught up on rest. Tonight. But soon I was completely caught up with everything that was happening around me; street vendors, motorbikes, people everywhere. And it was hot! I needed water so we ducked into a small shop were I bought a 1.5 liter bottle. Fredrick took us down to the market, where Embark buys all of the food for expeditions. Fredrick explained that this market was different because all of the food was very fresh, clean and came from local farmers, sort of a collective market. We saw fruits veggies, lentil flour, beans, rice, all kinds of things. He then took us to Union Cafe, a coffee roaster/cafe, for lunch. Set in an old government looking building, this cafe, like the market, is a collective of sorts where local organic farmers can sell their coffee.

We had a delicious lunch, and then we walked back to the hotel, stopping at the store for water and snacks. After an afternoon nap, Meagan and Francisco came to get me, and we got our first clear look at the mountain.

December 18.

I met Meagan and Francisco at the cafe for breakfast and coffee, then we brought our stuff down to meet our guides and head out for the Lemosho gate, which is about a 2.5 hour drive from Moshi. Once we got off the main highway to Arusha, the road was nice and there was not as much traffic. Everything was so green and lush, and there were lots of farms. Most people in this area are farmers; they grow corn, beans, coffee, potatoes, veggies, just about everything.

When we turned off the road towards the national park entrance, we saw a baboon! Our first wildlife sighting. The jungle at this point is thick, but the government clears sections of it for farmers to work, as long as they plant trees as well. When the trees get big, the farmers move to another plot. We made another turn and Leo told Fredrick to stop, and a man ran over to our jeep from another jeep parked on the side of the road. Leo explained that this guy was our permit person, and he had our permits, so we needed to bring him to the gate with us. Once we got permit things taken care of, we parked at the gate and waited for Leo and Fredrick at a picnic area, where lunch was set out for us. I was really impressed! We would eat well on this adventure.

After lunch we got started and Fredrick led us up into the jungle at a nice slow pace. Pole pole means “slow slow” in kiswahili, and it soon became our team name and our unofficial motto.

The trail was a consistent uphill and we saw lots of birds, including the beautiful turocco, which I still cannot find in my birding books. We saw blue monkeys, Black and White monkeys, and a hyrax, which is kind of like a giant pika. Leo pointed out different flowers, and knew the scientific names of just about everything we saw. Which is a huge bonus for me, and for my teammates. Fredrick explained that some of the younger guides who did not work their way up the ranks the way Leo and he did (porter, camp set up, server, cook, then guide) don’t necessarily have the kinds of knowledge that they do. Between them, Leo and Fredrick have over 50 years of experience on the mountain. I would later learn more about this.

We got to camp, and my tent was set up, with my duffle bag inside. Wow. What luxury! Andersen, a porter whose responsibility is the chemical toilet, showed us how to use it. This item made a huge difference on our adventure, and without Andersen, our experience would have been much different, and not for the better! Victor, the cook’s assistant and the person who organized the dining tent and served us food, showed us the dining tent and had tea, coffee or hot chocolate set up for us, with some popcorn.

Wow.

December 19: Big Tree Camp to Shira I Camp

Victor offered me coffee in my tent, and again I was struck with the luxury of organization with Embark. On an adventure, organization is a luxury; I am used to creating it myself but when someone else has that same mindset, it is something I recognize and appreciate. I took the coffee and went to the dining tent for cream and sugar. I accidentally added more instant coffee and ended up with a super powered cup of coffee, which ended up serving me well. Blue monkeys joined us in the trees for breakfast and I managed to get a decent photo of Brandon Walsh. If you are new to this blog and do not know about Brandon, maybe go and read some of the older posts.

Team Pole Pole’s unofficial mascot, the white necked raven.

We set off after our briefing at breakfast. The morning was clear and the dense jungle all around us was alive with all manner of life. We took a break in a cedar grove, which looked very different from the cedar groves I know back in Oregon. Soon we were out of the jungle into the moorland, and Leo pointed out some beehives that the rangers make from hollow logs and hang in the trees. People can get a special permit to come harvest the honey. He also pointed out a medicinal herb that smelled like sage and lemon; it’s used for stomach problems. Learning these things about the land really enriched the adventure for me and I was so grateful to have such excellent guides!

We took a break at the bottom of a huge ridge, which Leo said was the real climb of the day. He was not wrong! the trail itself reminded me of certain sections of the Pacific Crest Trail in the Sierra; a steady uphill with big steps. And more steps. When we reached the top, finally, I was feeling good and tired. The trail traversed the ridge line and as we took our last break of the day, a few of our porters showed up and offered to take out day packs! It had just started raining and we could see Shira I Camp in the distance, down the ridge. The thoughtfulness of our crew and guides did not cease to impress and amaze me. These guys had it down. We hopped down the trail in the light rain, and made it to our camp for the night. What a great spot, what a great crew.

The rain cleared out nicely and we had views of the mountain in the evening and the next morning.

December 20: Shira I to Shira 2 Camp

It was a gorgeous, clear morning when we set out to our next camp. The six mile hike to the next camp took us gently and consistently up, but nothing like the big climbs of the day before. I think we were all feeling the altitude at this point, being around 12,000 feet when we were half way through with the day’s hike. The Shira plateau is one of the highest plateaus in the world, and the plant life is very unique. We started to see lobelia, different from the ones we saw in the jungle. When the moorland lobelia bloom, they send up these giant bloom columns which attract all kinds of birds, my favorite bing the malachite sunbird that we first saw yesterday. We took a break near our first Giant Senecio plant just as it started to rain. Also at this time Pascal, Venance, Happy, and Ibrahim came down the trail to relieve us of our day packs. They took Fredrick’s pack too, as his is pretty heavy since he carries the emergency oxygen. Shira 2 Camp had an incredible view of the whole plateau, and of some very interesting rock formations. As the weather cleared we got a great view of Mt. Meru, a mountain just west of Kilimanjaro.

Mt. Meru. It’s about 15,000 feet but both Leo and Fredrick said that it is more challenging than Kili.

Today, December 20th, I celebrated my 14th year being clean and sober. This was the first year that I did not talk to any loved ones. It felt significant to me to celebrate in my favorite way; hiking, exploring new landscapes, and sharing meals with new friends. This was more than enough, perfect in fact, and it was a very memorable celebration.

I love my life.

December 21: Shira 2 Camp to Lava Tower than back down to Barranco Camp

Today was a big day. We knew we had another big climb. I was super excited to see the Lava Tower, which is a volcanic plug at around 15,200 feet. I love stuff like this and I was very much looking forward to seeing it. It was clear when we got started, and our three mile hike to the tower took us straight up. The trail leveled out somewhat, but we gained over 2,000 feet in three miles. I forgot to mention that we saw a dikdik the evening before, and we saw one again as it crossed the trail ahead of us. Leo saw it right away, the guide from another company did not see it even when Leo pointed it out. Our guides are the best!!!

Lunch in the dining tent next to Lava Tower.

After a big lunch we began our decent to Barranco Camp. This day was designed as acclimatization. We learned later that Fredrick and Leo also used it as a way to gauge whether or not we would be ready to summit in a couple of days. It was a tough day. The decent was gorgeous, and we were all in pretty high spirits, I think. We saw a ton more of the Giant Senecios, and more malachite sunbirds feasting on the lobelia blooms. We were all happy to get to camp.

We were in awe of the landscape around us.

The Barranco Wall. We would climb it the following morning.

Right before dinner, I felt nauseous and vomited up my electrolite water. Fortunately I was able to hold on to lunch. That was too good to lose. I was able to eat a little dinner, but not much. Leo and Fredrick told me it was very normal to be sick. Meagan had a bad headache, which they said was normal as well. Francisco was very kind and gave me some Tums, which helped. It was a fitful night of sleeping.

December 22: Barranco Camp to Karanga Camp

I woke up feeling ok physically, and great mentally. Still a tiny bit of nausea but overall much better. Overall, I have been feeling great on this trek. My training paid off, and while I was a bit sore from the downhill yesterday, my body and brain felt good.

I dreamt about something Fredrick was telling us about last night. He told us how Antepas’s (our chef) father used to climb Kilimanjaro with ice axes, back in the day when the glaciers where big and covered more of the mountain. He would take clients up to the summit that way, instead of hiking up. Now that is next level. I wish I could have seen the mountain when the glaciers were larger like that. I dreamt of huge ice waterfalls, and I think Hemingway was in there somewhere. And there was something about a rhinoceros but I can’t be sure.

Today is a short-ish hike of three miles and a bit of gain over to Karanga Camp. Climbing the Barranco Wall will be a bit different from our usual trekking, which will be a fun change. It was slow going, and there were a couple of pretty exposed spots, but Fredrick and Leo got us through it safely.

Leo spotting Francisco on Hug Point on the Barranco Wall.

Francisco and Brandon on the top of the wall.

We got to Karanga Camp in the early afternoon which gave us plenty of down time. I rested in my tent, read The Hobbit, and sat in the dining tent drinking hot water. Lunch was nice and plain and from this point forward I tried my best to eat as plainly as possible for my stomach. Nausea is gone but I felt like it could rear its head at any time, so care was necessary. This camp is very steep, and tonight will be our last full night of sleep before the summit bid. I took full advantage of that and slept very well, waking the next day feeling strong and ready for the next stretch.

My tent on the right, and the toilet tent in the middle.

December 23: Karanga Camp to Barafu Camp

We literally starting hiking straight up out of Karanga Camp after breakfast. I felt good; got a solid night’s sleep and looking forward to our highest camp at 15,200 feet. Both Leo and Fredrick said that we could count of feeling better at Barafu than we did after Lava Tower because we were more acclimatized. They, of course, were right. We had a nice hike up to our camp and I saw my first mountain buzzard, which Leo pointed out to me. At this elevation, we are not in what is called the alpine desert. Not much grows here but there are birds. Of course we have out white necked ravens.

The porters who work on Kilimanjaro are incredible athletes. Not only do they nimbly cruise up the trails, but they do so carrying heavy loads. They make it look so easy. Often times, like at Barafu Camp, they have to hike down a distance to get water, and carry it back up to camp. While we were at Karanga Camp, we got resupplied with food. The porters who brought up our resupply started that morning at around 6,500 feet, and hiked up to 13,200 feet to deliver food. Often times, resupply porters will turn around, hike back down to the Mweka Gate, and go back up the next morning to the same place to resupply a different group. Bad ass.

We got to Barafu Camp around 1:30 and had lunch. Then we rested until about 4:30, when Leo and Fredrick checked out our clothing that we planned to wear for the summit climb. I did not nap, but rested in my tent reading and periodically getting out to absorb the view from my tent. Fredrick approved of my gear, and I was stoked to wear my down pants for the climb. I ended up being really warm all the way up and not even my toes got cold.

We had dinner around 6 or so and the plan was to try to sleep until 10:30pm, when Victor would wake us up for a light breakfast and tea. I maybe dozed off for a half hour, but I was really too excited to actually sleep.

December 23pm – 24th Barafu Camp to Mweka Camp

This was a long day. We started our ascent around 11:30 and took it slow, slow. Pole pole. It was clear, and I watched the distant lights in the valley get smaller and smaller. My focus was on my feet, placing one foot in front of the other, and breathing. Breathing deep, breathing out deeply. Again and again. The next thing I know we are taking a break and we have been hiking for three hours. We have covered 1.5 miles. Half way there! The next stretch seems to get steeper, or maybe it’s the altitude. Soon, we don’t need our headlamps anymore and I can see Stella Point up ahead. I know I need to eat but my appetite is gone. I drink water. I eat half a protein bar that tastes like cardboard and is half frozen.

My awesome teammates, Francisco and Meagan!!!

We get to Stella Point and we are all worked at this point. But it’s exciting! It’s snowing! And it’s Christmas Eve! I try to eat more of the frozen protein bar. Leo helps me put my microspikes on. And we get moving. We only have about 45 minutes to the summit, Uhuru Peak. Now we can see down into the crater. The sky clears. Everything is shining bright. People coming down tell us congrats, and we say it back. Or maybe I just think it and keep moving. All I know is that the sign is there, in front of me, that iconic sign. You are at the top of Africa. Uhuru Peak. We made it.

And of course, any ascent is only half completed at the summit. Our descent route would take us straight down, not the same way we came up. Once we got back down to Stella Point, we took a quick break, removed our microspikes, and headed down the scree covered path. I think we all fell down at some point; and as soon as we were about a mile from camp we saw Pascal, Happy, Venance, and Ibrahim coming to help us with our day packs. I was so glad to see them. Even though my pack did not weigh very much, it was nice to see their friendly faces. Happy took it upon himself to help me, holding my arm and guiding me over the rocky parts. He was very kind.

We rolled into Barafu Camp around noon and Victor had tea ready for us, with some popcorn? Or was it cashews? Not sure I remember. All I know is that I was worked, and I was looking forward to a quick rest. I laid down in my tent with my boots sticking out. I took them off, and removed the rest of my clothing; I was so hot now that the high altitude sun was out. I changed into clothes from the bottom of my duffle that were still cold from last night. It felt so good to put them on. I sat in a chair in the sun and waited for lunch. It felt so glorious just to sit and do nothing.

After lunch we packed up our stuff and began our descent down to Mweka Camp, four miles and 4,000 feet below us. It was a brutal hike. It started off fine; downhill but manageable. Then, after a bit, the trail got very steep and rocky. The light rain didn’t help matters. We slowed our pace, and I swear that was the longest 3.5 km of my life. We walked into Mweka Camp and we were so happy to be there. We were down in the jungle again, for our last night on the mountain. We had an excellent meal, and we all crashed into our tents and were asleep within 5 minutes.

What a day.

December 25: Mweka Camp to Mweka Gate and Moshi

Everyone was in a good mood this morning. We had breakfast pretty early and shortly after 7am we were ready to hit the trail. Everyone was saying, “Merry Christmas!” and the mood around camp was festive. Christmas is a big deal in Tanzania and our crew was looking forward to getting home to their families. I was looking forward to a hot shower and clean clothes; a true Christmas miracle!

About 4 hours later after another long descent (significantly less brutal than yesterday but tough nonetheless) we got to the gate. Fredrick got our completion certificates and we drove to a little village to have our celebratory meal. At that point too we passed our our tips to our wonderful crew and I could hardly say a word because I of course started crying. And there were cats!

View of the mountain from the trail down to Mweka Gate.

After a great meal and some shopping, we headed back to Moshi and our hotel. The town was in the midst of a big Christmas celebration, and outside our hotel was a block party that went on well into the night. Good thing I had ear plugs. Slept like a rock.